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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW
ORLEANS
EYEWITNESS TRAVEL

NEW
ORLEANS
Main Contributor Marylin Wood
Contents
How to Use
this Guide 6
Project Editor Alejandro Lajud
Art Editor Victor Hugo Garnica
Editor Karla Sánchez
Designers Carlos Muñoz, Alejandro Lajud, Victor Hugo Garnica

Dorling Kindersley Limited

Senior Publishing Manager Louise Bostock Lang
Publishing Manager Kate Poole
Director of Publishing Gillian Allan
Editors Stephanie Driver, Mary Sutherland, Andrew Szudek
Map Co-ordinators David Pugh, Casper Morris
Dtp Co-ordinators Jason Little, Conrad van Dyk
Production Controller Joanna Bull

Main Contributor
Marilyn Wood

Maps
Ben Bowles, Rob Clynes and James Macdonald at Mapping Ideas Ltd.
One of the impressive floats at Mardi
Photographers Gras World
Julio Rochon, Jaime Baldovinos

Illustrators Introducing
Ricardo Almazan, Ricardo Almazan Jr.
New Orleans
Printed and bound by South China Printing Co. Ltd., China

First American Edition, 2002

Great Days
14 15 16 17 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 in New Orleans 10
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 Putting New Orleans
on the Map 14
Reprinted with revisions 2004, 2005, 2008, 2010, 2012, 2015
Copyright 2002, 2015 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company The History of
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part New Orleans 16
of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system,
or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise) without the prior written permission of both the copyright New Orleans
owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
at a Glance 32
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISSN 1542-1554
New Orleans
ISBN 978 1 4654 1196 9 Through the Year 42

The information in this

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the
time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening
hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information are liable to
change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very
highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80
Strand, London WC2R 0RL, Great Britain, or email: [email protected].
A striking white tomb at the Lafayette
Front cover main image: LaBranche House, French Quarter Cemetery in Garden District
Traditional houses with wrought-iron balcony in the French Quarter
New Orleans
Area by Area
Bourbon Street 48

Royal Street 50

Upper French Quarter 52

Lower French Quarter,

Marigny, and Treme 68

Warehouse and Central

Business Districts 86
View of Artillery Park and Moon Walk on the Mississippi River
Garden District
and Uptown 100 Travelers’ Travel Information
Needs 210
Mid-City 116
New Orleans
Where to Stay 162
Street Finder 218
Where to Eat
and Drink 168

Shopping in
New Orleans 182
Vegetables and fruit for sale in the
Entertainment in French Market
New Orleans 190
Hotel with a cast-iron cornstalk fencing Index 232

Three Guided Survival Guide Acknowledgments 241

Walks 130
Practical Phrase Book
Beyond New Orleans 138 Information 202 243

St. Charles Avenue streetcar

6 HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This DK Eyewitness Travel Guide helps and it covers all of the important sights, with
you to get the most from your visit to New photographs, maps and illustrations. Beyond
Orleans. It provides detailed information New Orleans covers nearby Cajun Country, as
and expert recommendations. well as the historic plantations.
The chapter titled Introducing New Orleans Information about hotels, restaurants, shops
maps the city and the region, and sets it in its and markets, entertainment, and sports is
historical and cultural context; it also describes found in Travelers’ Needs. The Survival Guide
the most salient events of the year. New Orleans section has advice on everything from using
at a Glance is an overview of the city’s main New Orleans’ medical services, telephones,
attractions. New Orleans Area by Area starts on banking, and post offices to the public
page 46. This is the main sightseeing section, transportation system.

Finding Your Way Around New Orleans

The city has been divided into five sightseeing numbered and clearly located on an Area Map.
areas, each with its own section in the guide. After this comes a Street-by-Street Map focusing
Each section opens with a portrait of the area, on the most interesting part of the area. Finding
summing up its character and history, and listing your way about the area section is made easy by
all the sights to be covered. The sights are a numbering system.

UPPER FRENCH QUARTER

The French Quarter is synonymous with
New Orleans. The original 20 blocks were
laid out around present-day Jackson
NEW ORLEANS AREA BY AREA

(meaning Old Square) is quintessential

New Orleans. The colorful Creole-style
cottages featuring jalousie-shuttered
53

1 Introduction to the area

For easy reference, the sights in each
area are numbered and plotted on
Square in 1721. The Upper French Quarter windows stand flush along the sidewalks.
runs from Iberville Street to St. Ann and
includes the busiest blocks of Decatur,
Chartres, Royal, and Bourbon streets. The
There are also several Spanish-style
buildings decorated with lacy iron galleries.
This iconic neighborhood escaped with
an area map. To help the visitor, this
last of these is particularly lively, offering
several bars that promise rollicking good
times. Architecturally, the Vieux Carré
very little wind damage from Hurricane
Katrina and experienced no flooding in
the days that followed.
map also shows the main streetcar
Sights at a Glance and bus stops, and parking areas. The
Historic Buildings Theaters Restaurants p174
2 St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo,
and Presbytère pp58–9
4 Pontalba Buildings
5 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré
Parks and Gardens
1 Jackson Square
1
2
3
Antoine’s
Arnaud’s
Bayona
area’s key sights are listed by category,
6 Pirate’s Alley 4 Camellia Grill
7 Père Antoine Alley and
St. Anthony’s Garden
q Louisiana Supreme
Boat Trips
t Steamboat Natchez
5
6
7
Doris Metropolitan
Galatoire’s
K-Paul’s Louisiana Kitchen
such as Museums and Historic Places.
Court Building 8 Nola
w Napoleon House 9 Pelican Club
Museums and Galleries 10 Rib Room
11 SoBou
3 The 1850 House
8 Musée Conti Wax Museum
9 Hermann-Grima
T
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Historic House S
ET

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0 Historic New Orleans

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Collection pp62–3 R
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ST
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A locator map shows where

RE
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Pharmacy Museum PE
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r Jean Lafitte National R E
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Historical Park U ST
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you are in relation to other

Visitor Center
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areas in the city center.

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Stars indicate the

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pi

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sites that no visitor

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0 meters 200 R CO
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See also Street Finder maps

3, 4, & 5

The historic St. Louis Cathedral on Jackson Square 54 NEW ORLEANS AREA BY AREA
For keys to symbols see back flap
UPPER FRENCH QUARTER 55

2 . St. Louis Cathedral,

Street-by-Street: Upper French Quarter Cabildo, and Presbytère
MID-CITY
LOWER
FRENCH
QUARTER
These were the most important
This is the heart of the French Quarter, containing a religious and administrative
UPPER
striking and harmonious collection of buildings. The lively buildings in the French and FRENCH
pi

QUARTER
Mississip

Jackson Square initially served as a military parade ground, Spanish periods.

or place d’armes, where troops were trained and drilled, WAREHOUSE
DISTRICT
executions carried out, and public meetings held. The & CBD

Cathedral, Cabildo, and Presbytère face the square. It was

redesigned in 1848, when Baroness Pontalba built the two Street musicians
Locator Map
See Street Finder maps 3, 4, & 5
elegant apartment buildings on the upriver and downriver play in front of
sides of the square. An impressive statue of General the cathedral.

Each area has color-coded Jackson was also unveiled in the center of the square,
where artists now display their work. 7 Père Antoine Alley and

thumb tabs. St. Anthony’s Garden

This garden was a favorite local
dueling place in the 19th century.

Tennesee Williams
wrote A Streetcar
Named Desire in an
apartment at 632
St. Peter Street.
S
T
.
A

A suggested route takes in some of

N
N

5 Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré

S
T

This theater, established in 1916, moved

R
TO

to its current location in 1919. The

the most interesting and attractive
UL

E
T

building is a replica of the original. ET

O

RE
US

ST
ES
E

ST

TR 3 . The 1850 House

ST

IL

AR
.P

CH
KI

streets in the area.

ET

This small museum

N

ER
SO

displays opulent furniture

ST
N

and decorations that

ST

convey the middle-class

lifestyles of the
The Omni Royal antebellum era.
Orleans hotel (see
p166) is constructed
on the site of the 1836 1 . Jackson Square
St. Louis Hotel. A magnificent statue of
General Jackson takes
center stage in
ET the square,

2 Street-by-Street map
Key RE
ST where artists
Suggested route T UR hang their
CA
DE works “on
the fence”.

This gives a bird’s-eye view of

interesting and important parts 0 meters

0 yards 30
30

of each sightseeing area. The w Napoleon House

The most beloved bar in the French
Quarter is devoted to Napoleon’s
4 Pontalba Buildings
The handsome Pontalba apartments, built

numbering of the entries ties For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81
memory. His portraits and other
memorabilia adorn the walls.
in 1848 for $302,000, are located on the
upriver and downriver sides of the square.

in with the area map and the

fuller description of the sights
on the pages that follow.
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE 7

New Orleans Area Map

New Orleans Area by Area
The colored areas shown on this Most of the sights described in this guide lie within the five
areas shown on the map below. Each of these areas has its

map (see inside front cover) are the own chapter. The center of New Orleans – the Upper and
Lower French quarters, and the Warehouse and Central
Business Districts – is relatively compact and easy to get MIDCITY
around, and the suburbs are served by convenient

five main sightseeing areas used transport links. As one of the busiest international ports
in the country, the city is constantly growing; the sights
outside the city limits are described in Beyond New Orleans

in this guide. Each is covered in a (see pp138–59).

Lower French
Quarter, Marigny,
and Treme

full chapter in New Orleans Area Pages 68–85

by Area (see pp46–137). They are MARIGNY

TREME

highlighted on other maps LOWER

FRENCH
QUARTER

throughout the book. In New Mid-City 0 kilometer 1

UPPER FRENCH
QUARTER

Pages 116–129 0 mile 1

Orleans at a Glance, for example, WAREHOUSE AND

CENTRAL BUSINESS
DISTRICTS

they help you locate the top Upper French Quarter

Pages 52–67

sights (see pp38–9).

GARDEN DISTRICT
AND UPTOWN

p i
i p
i s s
s s
M i
Garden District
Warehouse and
and Uptown
Central Business
Pages 100–115 Districts
Pages 86–99

Numbers refer to each Practical information provides everything you

sight’s position on the need to know to visit each sight. Map references
area map and its place pinpoint the sight’s location on the Street Finder
in the chapter. map (see pp218–26).

56

1
NEW ORLEANS AREA BY AREA

Jackson Square
Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.

Today, an attractive and lively

and everyday artifacts of the
period. A gift shop occupies
the ground floor.
UPPER FRENCH QUARTER 57

3 Detailed information
All the important sights in New Orleans
are described individually. They are
meeting place, this square was
named the Place d’Armes in the 4 Pontalba
early French colony, when it
was little more than a muddy
field. Here, the troops were
Buildings
St. Peter and St. Ann Sts. Map 5 D2.
v Riverfront. @ 5, 55. - =
listed in order, following the numbering
drilled, criminals were placed
in the stocks, and executions
were carried out. In 1850, it
was renamed for the hero
In 1848, Baroness Micaela
Pontalba supervised the
building of these block-long
on the area map at the start of
of the Battle of New Orleans
(see p19), after the Baroness
Pontalba paid for its
beautification and laid out
Jazz band playing in Jackson Square

The park is landscaped in a 2 St. Louis

apartments flanking the
uptown and downtown sides
of Jackson Square. They were
erected for over $300,000, and
the section. Practical information
the gardens and pathways
of the square as they exist
today. Under her auspices,
the Pelanne brothers
radial pattern, with walkways
stemming out from the center
and there are plenty of benches
to sit and enjoy the charm
Cathedral, Cabildo,
and Presbytère
See pp58–9.
at the time they were considered
the best and the largest
apartments of their kind.
At the age of 15, Micaela had
Interior of Le Petit Théâtre du Vieux Carré

Lower Pontalba Building, but

in 1922, the current site was
building where Faulkner wrote
his first novel, Soldier’s Pay,
includes a map reference, opening
designed the handsome
wrought-iron fence
that encloses the
of the historical houses.
Outside the park, diverse
artists rent space and 3 The 1850 House
married the foppish aristocrat
Celestin Pontalba, a distant
cousin, and moved to Paris.
bought and was used for the
first American productions of
Eugene O’Neill’s Beyond the
in 1925.

7 Père Antoine
hours, and telephone numbers. The
square. At the hang their works on There, her father-in-law tried to Horizon and Oscar Wilde’s Lady
center stands a
statue of General
Andrew Jackson
the enclosing fence,
and there are plenty
of artists waiting to
523 St. Ann St. Map 5 D2. Tel 568-
6968. @ 5, 55. Open 10am–4:30pm
Tue–Sun. Closed public hols. & 8
force her to sign over her entire
estate. When she refused, he
attempted to kill her, but
Windermere’s Fan. It is a pretty
building with a beguiling
courtyard and fountain.
Alley and St.
Anthony’s Garden
Map 5 D2. v Riverfront. @ 5, 55.
key to the symbols is on the back flap.
astride a rearing draw your portrait In the Lower Pontalba Building, succeeded only in shooting In 2011, the board of directors
horse, which was Water vessel in the or caricature. On the this museum recreates an off two of her fingers. decided to convert part of the This alley is named for one
sculpted by Clark 1850 House flagstones around antebellum apartment. The She courageously separated building into an eatery due to of the city’s most beloved
Mills for $30,000. the square, tarot three-story residence above the from her husband in 1848 and the severe financial problems clergymen, Father Antonio de
The inscription, “The Union card readers, jazz musicians, ground-floor space is accessed returned to New Orleans. The faced by the theater. The Sedella (Père Antoine), who
must and shall be preserved,” and clowns entertain visitors by a dramatic circular staircase. baroness, like her father the restaurant is run by the famous served as pastor of St. Louis
on the plinth was added by throughout the week. There are The bedrooms contain all philanthropist Don Andrés Dickie Brennan. Cathedral for 40 years. He was
Union General Benjamin also shops on the ground level the innovations of their day, Almonester y Rojas, was a The theater hosts an annual loved for his compassionate
“Beast” Butler, when he of the Pontalba Apartments, including walk-in closets and developer. With plans brought season of performances from ministry to the poor, whom he
occupied the city during the selling gifts, clothing, candy, private bathrooms. Also back from Paris, she proceeded September to June; it is advised assiduously fed and clothed.
American Civil War (see p20). and ice cream. displayed are decorative arts to build apartments like the you call ahead if you wish to The fenced garden, once
ones she had seen in Paris. buy tickets. It also acts as a a popular dueling ground,
Architects James Gallier and headquarters during the features a great sculpture of
Henry Howard drew up the Tennessee Williams New the Sacred Heart. In the early
plans. The design of the initials
A and P (for Almonester and
Pontalba) in the cast-iron
Orleans Literary Festival and
Writers’ Conference.
morning and evening, the scent
of sweet olive lingers in the air. The visitors’ checklist gives
railings of the galleries and
balconies is attributed to one of
the baroness’s sons, an artist.
6 Pirate’s Alley
Map 5 D2. @ 5, 55.
all the practical information
5 Le Petit Théâtre
du Vieux Carré
Although it is named after the
famous pirate brothers, Jean
and Pierre Lafitte (see p19), there
needed to plan your visit.
616 St. Peter St. Map 5 D2.
is no evidence here that this
Tel 522-2081. @ 5, 55. Box Office: was once a pirates’ haunt or a
Open 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sat. slave market. Today, the alley’s
Closed public hols. & classic bohemian atmosphere
and open-air cafés are what
This small theater was the make it worth seeking out.
brainchild of a group of actors The Faulkner House, a 58 NEW ORLEANS AREA BY AREA UPPER FRENCH QUARTER 59
called the Drawing Room bookstore where the shelves
Players, who came together in are lined with William Faulkner
1916 under the management first editions as well as works
of Mrs. Oscar Nixon. Their first by other major Southern St. Louis Cathedral, Cabildo,
2 House, a bookstore in
Faulkner
Ceiling Murals
Painted by Alsatian artist
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The Pontalba Buildings, the upriver side of Jackson Square theater was located in the authors, is located in the Pirate’s Alley
For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81
and Presbytère Erasme Humbrecht in
1872, the murals portray
Practical Information
Jackson Square. Map 5 D2.
different biblical stories.
This complex of buildings was the most important ensemble in Tel 525-9585 (St. Louis Cathedral);
the early colony. The Cabildo, designed by Guilberto Guillemard, 568-6968 (Cabildo and
Presbytère). Open 10am–4:30pm
was built and financed in 1795 by Don Andrés Almonester y
daily (St. Louis Cathedral);
Rojas. It served as a capitol for the legislative assembly of the 10am–4:30pm Tue–Sun (Cabildo
Spanish colonial government, and subsequently as the City Hall. and Presbytère). Closed all major
From 1853 to 1911, it housed the state Supreme Court. The Casa holidays (Cabildo and Presbytère).
& Cabildo and Presbytère.
Curial, or Presbytère, was built between 1794 and 1813, and
5 St. Louis Cathedral, regular
served as a courthouse until 1911. Today, both buildings are services daily. 7 8 =
flagship properties of the Louisiana State Museum. Two earlier ∑ saintlouiscathedral.org
churches on the site of the St. Louis Cathedral were destroyed, . Main Altar ∑ lsm.crt.state.la.us
The carved-wood Baroque altars
the first by a hurricane in 1722, the second by a fire in 1788. Transport
were constructed in Ghent,
The current building was begun in 1789 and dedicated as a v St. Charles Ave and Canal
Belgium, and brought to the
cathedral in 1794. It has been substantially modified since then. cathedral in pieces. streetcars. @ 5, 55, 81.

Façades of important buildings

are often shown to help you
recognize them quickly.
Cathedral Dome
A great mural of St. Louis announcing the Seventh Crusade
was painted above the altar.

Mardi Gras Exhibits

Pieces of floats, colorful
costumes, and historic
photos bring Mardi Gras
to life all year round.

4 New Orleans’ major sights

Historic buildings are
dissected to reveal their
KEY

1 Cabildo

2 Stained-glass windows with

figures of Catholic saints adorn the
cathedral’s interior.
Napoleon’s Death Mask

interiors; museums and The museum’s collection 3 Presbytère

includes a casting of 4 St. Louis Cathedral
Napoleon’s face made
after the French emperor’s 5 The clock bell, given the name
“Victoire” by Père Antoine, was cast in

galleries have color-coded death in 1821.

. Sala Capitular
The Louisiana Purchase (see p19)
was signed in this room; this desk
Paris. It has tolled hourly since 1819.
6 The steeples, the portico, and
the pilasters were added in 1851.
. Living with Hurricanes: Katrina and Beyond
The Presbytère houses exhibits and artifacts on

floor plans to help you find For hotels and restaurants see pp164–7 and pp174–81
set was in place at the time. Hurricane Katrina and storm science.

the most important exhibits.

INTRODUCING
NEW ORLEANS

Great Days in New Orleans 10–13

Putting New Orleans
on the Map 14–15
The History of New Orleans 16–31
New Orleans at a Glance 32–41
New Orleans Through the Year 42–45
10 INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS

GREAT DAYS IN
NEW ORLEANS
New Orleans has always been a city where and then by duration of stay. They cover
many cultures mingle. Today, that heritage the French Quarter, elegant Uptown, the
is reflected in the diversity of things to exciting visual and performing arts scene,
do and see. The following itineraries are and entertainment for families. Important
designed to provide a flavor of life in this sights have page references so you can check
exuberant city. Some of the city’s best for more details. The price guides include
attactions are arranged first thematically cost of travel, food, and admission charges.

French Quarter and now a charming café and

Mississippi Cruise bar that oozes typical French
Quarter ambience.
Two adults allow at least $125
•
Beignets for breakfast Afternoon
•
Mardi Gras exhibit
Head to the riverfront and the
Steamboat Natchez (see pp66–
•
Lunch at Napoleon House 7) for a 2-hour cruise (departs
•
Cruise on the Natchez and at 2:30pm), with calliope music,
a Bourbon stroll fascinating narratives on the
city, and views of the busy
waterway. Back on land, a short
Morning walk from the dock, the shops,
Start the day with a classic crafts booths, and flea market
coffee and beignets (donuts) stalls of the French Market
breakfast at the Café du (see p72) are excellent Stunning architecture at the Contemporary
Monde (see p78). Cross for browsing. Return Arts Center
Decatur Street to to Jackson Square
Jackson Square and hire a carriage Style, Art, and
(see p56) to watch for a ride through Creole Culture
street performers the Quarter and
entertain. Visit the the intriguing local Two adults allow at least $120
Mardi Gras exhibit at architecture. Finally, •
Explore the Arts District
the Presbytère (see Oysters, at the Acme stroll along Bourbon •
Creole history, art and
pp58–9), a landmark Oyster House Street (see pp48–9),
antiques on Royal Street
state museum. Then, and enjoy its neon-lit,
amble down Chartres Street bawdy glory before heading
•
An evening at the theater
to Napoleon House (see p61) to the Acme Oyster House
for lunch. This mansion, built (see p176) for oysters or
for the French emperor, is gumbo (stew). Morning
Breakfast at the popular
Camellia Grill (see p174),
a lively diner with a true
NOLA experience. Catch the
St. Charles Avenue Streetcar
(see pp106–107) or take a cab
to Lee Circle (see p98) where,
within a three-block radius,
you can happily overdose on
art at the Ogden Museum of
Southern Art (see p98), the
Contemporary Arts Center
(see p99), and Julia Street
galleries, which are clustered
together in the district.
A few blocks away, in an old
river warehouse on S. Peters
and Fulton streets, you’ll find
Garlic, and plenty of it, at the French market restaurants aplenty, offering
Plan de la Ville/La Nouvelle Orléans/Capitale de la Province de la Louisiane, by Thierry, 1755
G R E AT D AY S I N N E W O R L E A N S 11

a variety of lunch options,

including tapas, sushi, and
Mexican food.

Afternoon
Head back to the French
Quarter for the Historic
New Orleans Collection
(see pp62–3), where exhibits
illustrate Creole life in the
19th century. Stroll along
Royal Street (see pp50–51),
taking in its galleries, antiques
stores, and performers and A group of jazz players on Jackson Square
musicians found on nearly
every corner for six blocks. Having explored the maze of A Fun Day Out for
If you want to experience tombs at Lafayette Cemetery the Family
Creole fine dining, (see p104), return to
stop at Galatoire’s the streetcar route Family of 4 allow at least $150
(see p174), an upscale and board the next •
Clowns and caricatures
bistro on Bourbon Uptown-bound car •
A streetcar ride to the zoo
Street. Culture fans to Audubon Park (see
will have a choice of p113). Walk through the
•
Swamps and rare
a modern play at the lush grounds, or cross alligators
Southern Repertory the street to visit the •
History and horror in wax
Theatre in Canal campuses of Tulane
Place (see p96), or and Loyola universities
a classic at Le Petit A streetcar named (see p112). Walk, or hop Morning
Théâtre (see p57). St. Charles onto another Uptown- Start in the French Quarter,
bound streetcar, to at Jackson Square (see p56),
The Historic Charm the Riverbend (see p113), an where clowns, artists, and street
of the Streetcar outdoor recreation area. If performers put on a show for
hungry, grab a counter seat all. A caricature drawn here
Two adults allow at least $75 at Camellia Grill (see p174), a makes for a unique souvenir.
•
Go up and down town on charming retro diner. Then, head across Decatur
stately streetcars Street to check out the dance
•
Admire mansions and
Afternoon troupes and other acts in the
tombs in the Garden
After crossing Carrollton performance area next to
District
Avenue, window shop along the Jax Brewery. Get on the
bustling Maple Street, with its St. Charles Avenue streetcar
•
Lunch in the Riverbend fine book stores and upscale on Canal Street and take a
•
Cocktails at sunset boutiques. Return to St. Charles leisurely 30-minute ride to the
Avenue to board a downtown- acclaimed Audubon Zoo (see
bound streetcar to the pp114–15). If you get hungry,
Morning Columns Hotel (see p165), and grab a bite at one of the zoo’s
Get your $1.25 fare ready for reward yourself with a cocktail cafés (you’ll find the swamp
the first stop of the historic at the Victorian Bar, either on section’s popular eatery is
St. Charles Avenue streetcar its regal porch or inside at the heaving). While there, check out
(see pp106–107) at the corner ornate bar. the Louisiana swamp exhibit
of Canal and Carondelet streets. of local wildlife, especially the
Passengers travel at a steady rare white alligator.
pace past mansions and
towering oaks. Disembark at Afternoon
Washington Avenue and head Jump aboard the streetcar
into the Garden District for the return trip. Back in the
(see pp102–103), where you’ll French Quarter, enjoy scary
see opulent homes and dungeon settings, scenes
splendid gardens that bear from New Orleans’ history, and
witness to the wealth of the famous figures in wax at the
antebellum South. Drop into Musée Conti Wax Museum
the lobby of the renowned (see p60). End the afternoon
Commander’s Palace (see p179) by grabbing a muffuletta at
restaurant to pick up a free A predatory jaguar in the lush jungle at the popular Central Grocery
guide to historic homes. Audubon Zoo (see p78) – you’ve earned it.
12 INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS

at the world-class Audubon of Art (pp122–5) and wander

2 Days in New Orleans Aquarium of the Americas through their permanent
(pp92–3). Next, step over to the collection, before returning
•
Explore the heart of the Canal Street Ferry terminal for a on the Canal Streetcar.
French Quarter ride to Old Algiers Point. Take an
•
Ride America’s oldest hour exploring this quaint neigh- Day 2
streetcar borhood, admiring the cityscape Morning Explore the beautiful
before returning on the ferry. Garden District with the best
•
Experience New Orleans
antebellum homes in America by
from the river
riding the St. Charles Streetcar.
3 Days in New Orleans See the Gothic Revival Briggs-
Staub House (pp104–105) and
Day 1 •
Tour City Park and the the immaculate mansion at the
Morning Get to know Botanical Gardens Louise S. McGehee School (p105).
18th century New Orleans with •
Experience the adventure Loop back along Coliseum Street
historical exhibitions in the of Audubon Zoo towards Lafayette Cemetery
Cabildo (pp58–9). Then, proceed (p104) and Commander's Palace,
•
Discover the Mississippi
past street musicians and former brothel now a restaurant.
with a Steam-boat
fortune-tellers to the Presbytère
Natchez Dinner Cruise
(pp58–9) for some carnival Afternoon Reboard the
culture at the Mardi Gras St. Charles Streetcar and
museum. Stroll through the continue Uptown to Audubon
beautiful gardens in Jackson Day 1 Park (p113) and see the grand
Square (p56), passing the statue Morning Begin at the Greek buildings of Tulane and Loyola
of General Andrew Jackson Revival Old US Mint (pp76–7), Universities (p112). Then, walk
towards the Old US Mint discovering artifacts of among the oaks in Audubon
(pp76–7), and visit the stunning Louisiana’s past, then peruse Park (p113) to the famous
New Orleans Jazz Collection. the flea markets in the French Audubon Zoo (pp114–15).
Market (p72). Continue towards
Afternoon Start at the French Jackson Square (p56), surveying Day 3
Market (p72) with its open-air the local works of art displayed Morning Stroll down Royal
stalls and browse through the along the park fence. Make your Street, to Antoine Peychaud’s
souvenir stands. Head to the way to the famous St. Louis Pharmacy, the birthplace of the
Farmer’s Market to sample Cathedral (pp58–9). Then, head modern cocktail. Next, enjoy
local culinary specialties. Take a next door to the Presbytère the Musée Conti Wax Museum
stroll down Royal Street (pp50– (pp58–9) for a stunning Hurricane (p60), then on to see some
51), lined with art galleries and Katrina display. 19th century grandeur at the
antique shops, starting at the Herman-Grimma House (p60).
restored Gallier House (p74). Afternoon After lunch, hop on
Work your way to the other the Esplanade Avenue bus to Afternoon Take a walk down
end of Royal Street and visit Mid-City, walk along the beautiful Bourbon Street, visiting Pat
the interactive Historic New Bayou St. John (p121). Continue O’Brien’s along the way to
Orleans Collection (pp62–3), a past the exquisite Pitot House Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop (p80),
must see for visitors of all ages. (p121) and French Creole homes, the country’s oldest tavern.
crossing the Magnolia Bridge to Stroll along the Moon Walk
Day 2 City Park. Bring the kids to Story- (p79), and find the Lighthouse
Morning Start your day with a land (p120) or stroll through the Ticket Office to buy tickets for a
ride to the charming Garden Botanical Gardens (p120). Then, Dinner Jazz Cruise aboard the
District (pp102–103) on the visit the New Orleans Museum Steamboat Natchez (pp66–7).
historic St. Charles Avenue
Streetcar (pp106–107) to wander
amongst the antebellum
mansions. Swing past the famous
cornstalk fence at Colonel Short’s
Villa (pp108–109) on your way
to Lafayette Cemetery (p104) to
see the above ground tombs.
Then, meander past the fragrant
gardens to the Brevard-Wisdom-
Rice House (p109) before head-
ing to Magazine Street for a bite.

Afternoon Spend the day along

the Mississippi River, beginning Interior of the world famous St. Louis Cathedral
G R E AT D AY S I N N E W O R L E A N S 13

5 Days in New Orleans

•
Experience the diversity
of New Orleans culture at
the Presbytère
•
Admire works of art at the
Museum of Art
•
Explore the swamps and
see alligators in the Jean
Laffite Preserve

Day 1 Presbytère houses exhibitions on Mardi Gras and Hurricane Katrina

Morning Begin your day with
coffee and beignets at Café Day 3 exhibits at the Jean Lafitte
du Monde (p78), then pick up a Morning Spend a couple of National Historic Park Visitor
souvenir while walking through hours exploring the Garden Center (p61) on Decatur Street,
the French Market (p72) to the District (pp102–103) by riding the arriving early for the free
Old Ursuline Convent (p72–3), St. Charles Streetcar (pp106–107) walking tour. Next, stroll the
the oldest building in the and snaking your way past the boardwalk trail in the alligator-
Mississippi Valley. Next, head Women’s Guild Opera House filled swamp in the park’s
over to the Woldenberg (p108) to the oldest house in the Barataria Preserve, just a short
Riverfront Park (p90) and a neighborhood, Toby’s Corner drive across the river, or buy
leisurely stroll back for lunch. (p108), and fine Italianate archi- tickets for one of the many
tecture at the Musson-Bell House swamp boat tours, most
Afternoon Discover marine (p109). Get back on Washington offering transportation from
ecology at the Aquarium of the Avenue for more sites or head downtown hotels.
Americas (pp92–3) before hitting down to Magazine Street for
Bourbon Street (pp48–9) for lunch and ride the bus back. Afternoon Step back in time
a cocktail at the Old Absinthe at the eclectic New Orleans
House. Next, meet the legends Afternoon Get your shopping Pharmacy Museum (p61) and
that made this city famous at the fix at the designer-label stores see tools and techniques of the
Musée Conti Wax Museum (p60) inside the Canal Place (p96) 19th century. Then, stop in for a
or see the sacred Congo Square shopping center, or the more Pimm’s Cup at Napoleon House
(p82) in Armstrong Park (p81). affordable Outlet Collection at (p61) before finishing the day
Riverwalk (p91). Then, pass the with a leisurely walk down Royal
Day 2 fountain in Spanish Plaza (p90) Street to the Historic New
Morning Beat the crowds by and get tickets for the 2pm Orleans Collection (pp62–3) of
touring the Jackson Square Harbor Jazz Cruise aboard the old photographs of the city.
(p56) landmarks early, starting Steamboat Natchez (pp66–7).
with the cultural exhibitions in Day 5
the Presbytère (pp58–9), then a Day 4 Morning Explore Uptown with a
quiet moment inside St. Louis Morning Learn about the streetcar ride to Tulane University
Cathedral before entering the wetlands with interactive (p112) to see the priceless
former seat of government at pottery in the Newcomb Art
the Cabildo (pp58–9). Catch Gallery (p112–13). Next, make
the performances by street your way through Audubon
musicians before stopping for Park (p113) and wander around
lunch at Pirate's Alley (p57). Audubon Zoo (pp114–15),
grabbing lunch before returning
Afternoon Spend the rest of on the Magazine Street bus.
the day in Mid-City; ride the
Canal Streetcar to City Park Afternoon Hop off the bus and
(pp118–19) for a spin on the spend a few hours in the
100-year-old wooden carousel National WWII Museum (p99)
or amble through the Sculpture with their state-of-the-art
Garden and admire the fine art Solomon Victory Theater and
collections at the New Orleans numerous displays including
Museum of Art (pp122–5). airplanes and boats. End the day
Catch the Esplanade Bus back, with a relaxing, sunset ride on
and if there’s still time, visit the Realistic figures on display at the Musée the Canal Street Ferry across the
Degas House (p128). Conti Wax Museum river to Algiers Point and back.
14 INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS

Putting New Orleans on the Map

New Orleans is located in southeast Louisiana, between
Lake Pontchartrain and the Mississippi River. The airport
handles international and domestic flights, and there
are good road and rail links to the rest of the country. Prior
to Hurricane Katrina, in August 2005, the population of
central New Orleans was approximately 485,000. Many
New Orleanians lost their homes as a result of the terrible
floods and had to move away. By 2012, the population
Lake
had rebounded to around 370,000. Pontchartrain

Baton 55
Rouge

10
Frenier

61
La Place
Garyville
Gramercy 44
sissippi 10
Lutcher is Kenner
M 61
Reserve
Paulina
Wallace
Killona Armstrong
Norco International Airport
Vacherie 310
18
Destrehan 48
Hahnville
St. Rose
18

20
Lac des
South Allemands
Vacherie Luling
90
310 Mimosa Park
Boutte
Paradis
Kraemer

Chackbay
Choctaw
Des Allemands

Lac Bayo
uL
Boeuf afo
ur
Lafourche c
he

90

St. Charles
Schriever
Raceland Lake
1
S a l v a dor

90 Clotilda

24
Lake
Fields Lockport
1
B ayo
u Lafou
rche

Houma
Larose
Intracoastal Waterway

0 kilometers 10

10
24 Cut Off
0 miles
PUTTING NEW ORLEANS ON THE MAP 15
Covington

Greater New Orleans 25 21 11 59

10 Wiggins

Tickfa
61 26

Amite

w
Bogalusa Poplarville
16
Zachary 21
Amite 25 49
Baker
Port 55 Hammond Picayune
Allen Baton 12 Covington
Rouge Gulfport
10
Biloxi

M
iss
1 Area of main map

iss
Bay

ip
90

pi
Plaquemine St Louis
Armstrong Lake
International Borgne Gulf of
Airport
Mexico
1

Morgan
City
Causeway

90
Pontchartrain

M
iss
iss
Grand Isle

ip
Venice

pi
Port
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Gulf of Mexico
47 0 miles 50

90

Metairie Lake
61
Borgne
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Ridge Chalmette

Harahan New Algiers Mi

ssissip
Orleans 90
pi Meraux
Avondale Gretna 39

Marrero Harvey Terrytown 46

Westwego
23 Poydras
Belle St. Bernard 46
39
Estelle Chasse

Lake Reggio
Cataouatche
Couba Dalcour
Island Lake Lery

Bertrandville

Crown Willis Delacroix

Point Jesuit Point
Bend
Lake
Barataria Belair Petit
39
Naomi
Lafitte
Carlisle
23

Phoenix
Ironton Davant

Key Myrtle
Grove
Urban area
M
Bayou iss
iss
Freeway i pp
Lake Magnolia
Laurier Bohemia
i

Major road
Minor road
Diamond
Railroad

For keys to symbols see back flap

INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS 17

THE HISTORY OF
NE W ORLEANS
In 1541, Spanish explorer Hernando de Soto discovered the Mississippi River, but
it was the Frenchman Robert de La Salle who sailed down the river for the first time
in 1682 and erected a cross somewhere near the location of modern New Orleans,
claiming it and the whole of Louisiana for his king, Louis XIV.

French Colony colony diminished, criminals and

The first French settlements were prostitutes were deported from France
established on the Gulf Coast at to New Orleans, the first 88 women
Biloxi. It took another 19 years before arriving from La Salpêtrière, a Paris
Jean Baptiste Le Moyne, Sieur de house of correction, in 1721. The first
Bienville, established a settlement on slaves had arrived a year earlier, and in
the Lower Mississippi at New Orleans 1727, the Ursuline Sisters arrived and
in 1718. In 1721, the engineer Adrien founded their convent. The Company
de Pauger laid out the French Quarter of the West speculative bubble
behind the levees that had been eventually burst and Law’s company
constructed. Two years later, the collapsed. In 1731, the king resumed
capital of the colony was moved control and sent Bienville back to
from Biloxi to New Orleans. govern and to deal with the trouble -
However, the colony did not prosper, some Chickasaw and Natchez Indians.
and the French Regent, Philippe Commerce began to grow, despite
d’Orléans, turned over control to a the restrictions that the French had
private financier and speculator, imposed on trade with England, Spain,
Scotsman John Law, who floated Mexico, Florida, and the West Indies.
stock in his Company of the West Much of it was illegal. By 1763, river
and promoted Louisiana as a utopia, traffic had grown so prodigiously
which it was not. The natives were that exports (indigo, sugar, rum, skins,
hostile, the land was a swamp, and and fur) totaled $304,000.
the climate pestilential, but, lured by By that time, the contest for the
Law’s advertisements, thousands of control of North America had begun
Germans and Swiss left for Louisiana in earnest; in 1755, the Seven Years’
and, if they survived the perilous ocean War had broken out between Britain
crossing, settled along the Mississippi. and France, Spain, and other
Whenever immigration to the new European powers.

1682 La Salle explores the 1720 The first 1727 The Ursuline 1763 Exports top
Mississippi and claims shipment of slaves Sisters arrive in $300,000
Louisiana for Louis XIV arrives on July 7 New Orleans

1550 1650 1750

1541 Spanish explorer 1718 Jean Baptiste Le 1721 88 women arrive from a
Hernando de Soto Moyne, Sieur de Bienville, house of correction. Adrien de
discovers the establishes a settlement Pauger lays out the Vieux Carré
Mississippi River
C. de la Motte, an aristocrat of the French colony

Americans take control of the city after the Louisiana Purchase

18 INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS

St. Louis Cathedral, flanked by the Cabildo (left) and Presbytère, built during Spanish rule

Spanish City allowing citizens to trade with countries

The Seven Years’ War ended in 1763, and other than Spain. In 1788, a fire on Good
Louis XV signed the Treaty of Paris, which Friday, March 21, destroyed 856 buildings.
ended French ambitions in North America. The destruction was so extensive that most
Before signing, however, he had secretly of the French-style buildings were lost.
ceded Louisiana to his cousin, the Spanish After the fire, the Spanish decreed that all
king, Charles III. The French settlers in buildings of two stories or more were to
Louisiana were outraged at the news, be constructed of brick, thus giving the
and when the Spanish governor Don rebuilt city a definite Mediterranean look.
Antonio de Ulloa arrived in 1766 to take In the 1790s, under Baron Carondelet
control, they rebelled, driving him back (1792–7), New Orleans thrived. He granted
to Havana. Alexander O’Reilly, an Irish-born free trade to the Americans on the Mississippi
Spanish general, arrived with 24 warships, and made New Orleans the port of deposit
2,000 soldiers, and 50 artillery pieces. for three years. The city’s first theater and
He executed six ringleaders of first newspaper were soon
the rebellion at the site of the established, gas lamps lit the
Old US Mint, on October 25, streets, and a basic police force
1769, and firmly established was recruited. Drainage ditches
Spanish power. were dug too, to protect the
During the American city against flooding by
Revolution (1775–83), Governor the Mississippi. Prosperity
Bernardo de Galvez supported increased, and the sugar
the American colonists and industry was created in 1796,
skillfully defended Baton Rouge, when Jean Etienne de Boré
Natchez, Mobile, and Pensacola. Spanish Governor Bernardo de first granulated sugar on a
He also relaxed trade restrictions, Galvez (1776–85) commercial scale. The city was

1765 First 1769 Governor O’Reilly 1788 Fire on March 21

Acadians arrive suppresses the 1766 (Good Friday) destroys
from Nova Scotia rebellion 856 buildings

1760 1770 1780 1790

1791 Toussaint L’Ouverture

1763 Treaty of Paris 1775–83 leads slave revolt in Saint
signed; Louisiana Revolutionary War Domingue (Haiti)
and New Orleans Bernard de Marigny, an
ceded to Spain early plantation owner
THE HISTORY OF NEW ORLEANS 19

home to important plantations like

the one owned by Bernard de
Marigny in the Lower French Quarter.
New Orleans also received an infusion
of talented men from the French
colony of Saint Domingue (now
Haiti), who had fled the slave uprising
there in 1791. By 1804, refugee
planters and slaves were pouring into
New Orleans. They added a distinct Andrew Jackson leading the Battle of New Orleans
Caribbean cast to the colony, erecting
West Indian-style houses. The planters’ slaves James Wilkinson and William C. C. Claiborne
and free people of color expanded the officially ratified the transfer on December
practice of voodoo in the colony. 20, 1803, at the Cabildo. On April 30, 1812,
Louisiana was admitted to the Union, six
The Louisiana Purchase and weeks before the United States declared war
the Battle of New Orleans on Great Britain because of restraint of trade
Although Spain ceded Louisiana to France and the impressment of Americans into
in 1800, Napoleon, who was preoccupied in the British navy. In January 1815, despite the
Europe, soon sold it to the United States for Treaty of Ghent, which had theoretically
$15 million to help pay for his wars. General ended the war the month before, British
forces launched a fresh attack on New
Orleans. Under General Andrew Jackson,
a ragtag army of pirates, American
frontiersmen, French gentlemen, and free
men of color beat back the British, validating
the peace treaty and finally ending hostilities.
In 1812, the first steamboat had arrived
in New Orleans, and soon after the victory
at the Battle of New Orleans, waves of
newcomers, attracted by rapid commercial
growth, drove the population to more than
40,000. Nevertheless, friction between the
French Creoles and the Americans gave rise
to the creation of two separate districts; the
French Quarter and an uptown American
section. Canal Street separated the two,
and the space between was known as the
Representation of the Battle of New Orleans at Chalmette neutral ground.

Spanish treaty of 1794 1803 Louisiana 1812 The steamer New Orleans
Purchase ratified on arrives in the city in January
1796 Sugar December 20
industry
1815 Andrew Jackson triumphs at the
established
Battle of New Orleans on January 8
1800 1810 1820

1795 United States and

Spain sign a treaty 1800 Louisiana 1812 Louisiana 1814 Treaty of Ghent,
opening the Mississippi ceded from admitted to the signed on December 24,
to American trade Spain to France Union on April 30 ends the War of 1812
20 INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS

Steamboats, Cotton,
and Sugar
The arrival of the first steamboat,
in 1812, opened the city’s trade
to the interior and the upcountry
plantations. Before the steamboat,
cargo was carried on flatboats,
which floated down the Ohio
and Mississippi from Louisville,
Kentucky, on a journey that
took several weeks. The new The Robert E. Lee steamboat on the Mississippi
steamboats cut the journey to a
fraction of that time. Between 1803 and riverboat gambling, and easy living. The
1833, about 1,000 boats a year docked at the only blights were the frequent epidemics of
port of New Orleans. By the mid-1830s, cholera and yellow fever. Between 1817 and
the port was shipping half a million bales 1860, there were 23 yellow fever epidemics,
of cotton, becoming the cotton capital of killing more than 28,000 people. The worst,
the world. By 1840, it was the second most in 1853, killed 10,300 people.
important port in the nation, after New
York, and the population had passed 80,000. Civil War and Reconstruction
Other commodities that enriched the city The Civil War brought prosperity to an
were sugar, indigo, coffee, and bananas. As end. In 1861, Louisiana seceded from
many as 35,000 steamboats docked the Union. In 1862, Union Navy
at the wharves in 1860, clearing Captain Farragut captured New
$324 million worth of trade. Orleans, and General Benjamin
By this time, New Orleans was “Beast” Butler occupied the
the largest city in the South, and, city on May 1, 1862. Butler
with a population of 168,000, it hanged William Mumford
was the sixth largest city in the for tearing the United States
nation. The immense wealth that flag down from the Mint,
was being generated led to the confiscated the property of
city’s further expansion and cultural 1845 portrait of those who refused to sign an
development. The city of Lafayette a family oath of allegiance, and passed
(now the Garden District) was annexed an ordinance declaring that any
in 1852; the French Opera House was built in woman who insulted a Union soldier
1858; the Mardi Gras festival became more would be regarded as a prostitute and
widely celebrated when the first parading locked up. The citizens chafed under his
krewe, Comus, was founded in 1857; it also rule and that of his successor, General
developed a reputation for its courtly life, Nathaniel Banks. After the war, the city

1831–5 New Orleans 1845 New Orleans is the 1853 Yellow fever
becomes the world’s second biggest port in kills 10,300 between
largest cotton market the country July and November Civil War gun

1830 1840 1850 1860

1820–30 The 1861 Louisiana secedes

development of the from the Union
1865 Civil
steamboats allows the 1862 Union General
War ends
city to open trade to the 1852 The city of Lafayette is annexed, Benjamin Butler occupies
interior of the country becoming the Garden District the city on May 1
THE HISTORY OF NEW ORLEANS 21

struggled to recover, but the source of so

much of the city’s wealth – the upriver
plantations – had been destroyed. The “Old
South” never recovered; the steamboat era
was over, and the economic shift toward
the northeast left New Orleans languishing.
Poor race relations troubled the city after
the Civil War. In 1865, at the end of the Civil
War, slaves were freed but lived in legal
limbo. In 1866, a race riot broke out near
Mechanics Hall in downtown New Orleans, Slave cabin in a cotton plantation, circa 1860
where a group of white and black men
were drafting a new state constitution to began to erode as old Confederates
extend full rights to black men (women resumed full political, civil, and economic
would not vote until the 20th century). power. Segregation became entrenched
During the attack, 37 delegates were in 1896 when, in Plessy v. Ferguson, the US
killed and 136 wounded; the violence of Supreme Court established the so-called
the Mechanics Hall riot was a key element “separate but equal” mandates. Segregation
in Congress’s decision to organize was not successfully challenged again for
Reconstruction as a military occupation more than 50 years. Racial tensions only
of the old Confederacy by federal troops. worsened as waves of Italians and Irish
In 1877, federal troops withdrew, but immigrants arrived in the late 19th century.
the legal and social gains made by African Although the 1884 Cotton Centennial
Americans during Reconstruction soon Exposition boosted the city’s profile as a
major commercial center, crime,
prostitution, and corruption
remained rampant. In 1897, in an
attempt to control the lawlessness
that was troubling the city, Alderman
Sidney Story sponsored a bill that
legalized prostitution in a 38-block
area bounded by Iberville, Basin,
Robertson, and St. Louis streets.
This area, which became known as
“Storyville”, fostered the beginnings
of a new style of improvisational
music, called jazz (see pp22–3). It was
later demolished to make way for
Painting of a fleet of Civil War frigates low-income housing.

1866 1877 Reconstruction ends; 1890 Racial tensions 1897 Sidney Story
Mechanics federal troops leave reach their peak in proposes official red
Hall Riot New Orleans light district

1870 1880 1890 1900

1896 Supreme Court

General Robert E. Lee 1884 Cotton Centennial decision in Plessy v. Ferguson
Exposition permits racial segregation
22 INTRODUCING NEW ORLEANS

History of New Orleans Jazz

Jazz is America’s original contribution to world culture. It
evolved slowly and almost imperceptibly from a number
of sources – from the music played at balls, parades, dances,
and funerals, and New Orleans’ unique blend of cultures.
Its musical inspirations included classical music (the original
jazz musicians were classically trained), spirituals, marches,
and American folk influences – the entire mélange of music
that was played in 19th-century New Orleans. Trumpeter Oscar “Papa” Celestin
The founder of the Tuxedo Brass
Band in 1911 also composed
“Down by the Riverside.”
Congo Square
On Sundays, slaves
gathered here to
celebrate their
one day off, playing
music and dancing.

Papa Jack’s
Dixieland Jazz Band
This all-white band,
led by Nick LaRocca,
made the first jazz
recording in 1917.

Louis Armstrong
This world-famous jazz trumpeter Bordellos, or “sporting
began singing on the streets of houses,” were where jazz
New Orleans. He played with Kid gained its popularity.
Ory before leaving the city in 1923
to join King Oliver’s band in Chicago.

Buddy Bolden (1877–1931), a Joe “King” Oliver (1885– 1938)

barber born in New Orleans, played started playing cornet in New “King” Oliver
cornet and formed one of the first Orleans in 1904, but moved to
jazz bands in the 1890s Chicago with his Creole Jazz Band

1880 1900 1920

Sidney Bechet (1897–

Jelly Roll Morton (1890–1941) 1959) played clarinet
began his piano career in the and soprano saxophone
brothels of Storyville. He was the with early leaders like
first great jazz composer and pianist Freddie Keppard
THE HISTORY OF NEW ORLEANS 23

Kid Ory’s Trombone

Edward “Kid” Ory played with King
Oliver and Louis Armstrong’s
famous Hot Five band.

Riverboat Jazz Bands

After Storyville was closed down in 1917, New Orleans’
best musicians moved onto the boats or migrated to
northern cities. Pianist Fate Marable’s band included
Louis Armstrong, who played the cornet.

The Boswell Sisters

Connie, Martha, and Vet Boswell
sang and recorded in the early
1930s. This was the most popular
female jazz group of its time.

Musicians were screened

off so that they could not
see the patrons.

Storyville Jazz Salon

Many early jazz artists entertained in Storyville
at the bordellos, playing behind screens –
Buddy Bolden, King Oliver, Jelly Roll Morton, Jelly Roll Morton
Sidney Bechet, Kid Ory, Freddy Keppard, and Ferdinand “Jelly Roll” Morton, who formed
Manuel Perez among them. the band The Red Hot Peppers, claimed
to have invented jazz in 1902.

Louis Armstrong (1901–1971) was Terence Blanchard (1962–), a trumpeter, played

the greatest of all jazz musicians. with Lionel Hampton and Art Blakey before forming
From 1940 to 1960, he played with Louis Armstrong his own quintet. He is famous for composing and
his All Star Band playing the music for Spike Lee’s films

1940 1960 1980 2000

Danny Barker (1909–1994) Harry Connick, Jr. (1967–) played in New

played guitar and banjo with the Pete Fountain (1930–) Orleans clubs as a teenager, later becoming
big bands in the 1930s and 1940s is considered one of the a major jazz-pop music star and arranging
before returning to New Orleans best clarinetists in the world the score for When Harry Met Sally
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ease and slight alteration it was possible for the two geared engines
supplied to the Great Western Railway by the Haigh Foundry to have been
altered to ordinary direct action engines.
Large wheels were also to be used for the tender, the axles passing
through the water-tank, so that the centre of gravity was lowered.
James Pearson, the locomotive superintendent of the Bristol and Exeter
Railway, obtained a patent on October 7th, 1847, for a double locomotive.
Fairlie’s “Little Wonder” narrow-gauge engines were probably suggested by
Pearson’s design of 1847; whilst the latter’s famous broad-gauge double-
bogie tanks were decidedly evolved from his earlier form of locomotive.
The boiler was to have the fire-box in the centre, the latter being divided
into two parts, connected below the furnace doors; the driving axle was
across this central foot-plate, to allow of very large wheels and a low centre
of gravity. Each boiler (there being practically two, one each side of the
central double fire-box) was carried on a four-wheel bogie, so that the
locomotive was carried on ten wheels, as in the later design. The bogie
frames were connected by tension-rods, passing outside the fire-box. India-
rubber springs were employed, their use being to allow each bogie to adjust
itself to any inequality of the road, and to bring the bogies back to the
straight position on an even road. The coke was to be stowed in bunkers
over the boilers, and the water could be either in tanks between the tops of
the boilers and the coke bunkers, or a separate tender could be provided.
The steam domes were on the fire-box, and were to be of abnormal height,
and connected over the head of the foot-plate, thus forming the roof of the
cab. An exhaust fan was fixed in the smoke-box to draw the heated air
through the tubes and discharge it up the chimney, or it could be used again
as a hot blast for the furnace, and a chimney and a smoke-box were
provided for each boiler. The fans were to be driven by pulleys off one of the
axles, and it was claimed that, as the exhaust steam was not required for
the purpose of creating a blast, extra large exhaust pipes could be used,
and the cylinders thereby relieved of “back pressure.” The cylinders were
outside, and the valves were beyond the cylinders. These were fixed
between the wheels of one of the bogies. The general design of this engine,
as shown in the drawings, was very ingenious, and is certainly the most
symmetrical “double-ended” type of engine we have seen illustrated.
Pearson for some reason did not construct an engine after this style, but
produced the well-known 9ft. “single” (double-bogie) tanks instead.
The third patent now to be described had also for its leading feature
extra large driving wheels. The specification is that of Charles Ritchie, of
Aberdeen, the patent being granted to him on March 2nd, 1848. The
principal feature was the providing of two piston-rods to each piston, one on
each side. Four driving wheels were proposed, one pair placed in front of
the smoke-box and one pair behind the fire-box. The cylinders were outside,
and were, of course, fixed at an equal distance between the two pairs of
driving wheels. One pair of carrying wheels was to be used, placed below
the cylinders. It was claimed that this arrangement of pistons and
connecting-rods exactly balanced the reciprocating parts of the machinery,
and therefore abolished oscillation. Another improvement related to the
slide-valves, the starting, stopping, and reversing of the engine, together
with the expansive working of the steam, the whole to be controlled by a
wheel on the foot-plate, connected by cogs with the link of the valve gear.
Other improvements were compensating safety valves, an “anti-primer,”
and an improved feed-water apparatus. The last is described as follows:
—“Upon steam being admitted from the boiler into the cylinder, through the
steam-port, the piston will be acted upon, and the ram be withdrawn; the
water will then raise the valve and enter the barrel, to occupy the space
previously occupied by the ram. By this time the piston will have acted upon
a lever, so as to cause the slide-valve to uncover one port and cover the
other, thereby allowing the steam on the other side of the piston to escape
through the exhaust pipe.
“The piston will now be impelled in a contrary direction, and the ram
entering the barrel will cause the one valve to be closed and the other to be
opened by pressure of the water therein, which, as the ram advances, will
be forced into the boiler.”
Another part of the specification related to an “anti-fluctuator.” A partition-
plate was to be fixed between the tube-plate and the fire-box, and the water
was to be let into the boiler at the fire-box end, and would only reach that
portion of the boiler beyond the fire-box by flowing over the top of the
partition-plate. By this means the fire-box would always be covered with
water. It will be seen that the specification contained several useful
propositions, which, however, do not appear to have been put into practice.
Fig. 56.—TIMOTHY HACKWORTH’S “SANSPAREIL NO. 2”

We have previously, upon more occasions than one, shown the

important position occupied in the evolution of the steam locomotive by the
engines built or designed by Timothy Hackworth. We now have to give an
account of his last locomotive, the “Sanspareil No. 2.”
A comparison of the drawings of this engine (copies of which are in our
possession) with Hackworth’s earlier efforts of 20 years before, clearly
discloses the remarkable strides made in the improvement of the locomotive
during that period, and also most clearly shows that in 1849 Hackworth was
still in the very van of locomotive construction, even as he had been in the
days of his “Royal George.”
The “Sanspareil No. 2” (Fig. 56) was constructed by Timothy Hackworth
at his Soho Engine Works at Shildon. The patent was obtained in the name
of his son, the late John Wesley Hackworth. We are indebted to the executor
of the will of Timothy Hackworth for many of the following details concerning
the engine now under review.
The locomotive was of the six-wheel “single” type, with outside bearings
to the L. and T. wheels, and inside bearings of the driving wheels. The
cylinders were inside. A cylindrical steam dome was placed on the boiler
barrel close to the smoke-box. The fire-box was of the raised pattern, and on
it was an encased Salter safety valve. Cylindrical sand-boxes were fixed on
the frame-plates in front of the driving wheels. The principal dimensions of
the engine were:—Driving wheels, 6ft. 6in. diameter; leading and trailing, 4ft.
diameter; cylinders, 15in. diameter, 22in. stroke. Weight in working order:—
L., 8 tons 6 cwt.; D., 11 tons 4 cwt.; T., 4 tons 5 cwt. Total, 23 tons 15 cwt.
It would be well if we mentioned the principal novelties in construction—
viz.: Welded longitudinal seams in boiler barrel; the boiler was connected to
the smoke-box and fire-box by means of welded angle-irons, instead of the
usual riveted angle-irons; the lagging of the boiler was also covered with
sheet-iron, as is now general, instead of the wood being left to view, as was
at that time the usual practice.
A baffle-plate was fitted at the smoke-box end of tubes, as well as at the
fire-box end.
The pistons and rods were made of wrought-iron in one forging.
The valves were constructed under Hackworth’s patent, and were
designed to allow a portion of the steam required to perform the return
stroke to be in the cylinder before the forward stroke was completed, and
thus to form a steam cushion between the piston and cylinder covers. Such
working was said to economise 25 to 30 per cent. of fuel.
The engine conveyed 200 tons 45 miles in 95 minutes, consuming 21
cwt. of coke, and evaporating 1,806 gallons of water. She also drew a train
of six carriages over the same distance without a stop, in 63 minutes, with
an expenditure of 13 cwt. of coke and 1,155 gallons of water.
Upon the completion of this engine, J. W. Hackworth sent the following
challenge to Robert Stephenson:—
“Sir,—It is now about 20 years since the competition for the premium of
locomotive superiority was played off at Rainhill, on the Liverpool and
Manchester Railway. Your father and mine were the principal competitors.
Since that period you have generally been looked to by the public as
standing first in the construction of locomotive engines. Understanding that
you are now running on the York, Newcastle and Berwick Railway a
locomotive engine which is said to be the best production that ever issued
from Forth Street Works, I come forward to tell you publicly that I am
prepared to contest with you, and prove to whom the superiority in the
construction of locomotive engines now belongs.
“At the present crisis, when any reduction in the expense of working the
locomotive engine would justly be hailed as a boon to railway companies,
this experiment will no doubt be regarded with deep interest as tending to
their mutual advantage. I fully believe that the York, Newcastle and Berwick
Railway Company will willingly afford every facility towards the carrying out
of this experiment.
“Relying upon your honour as a gentleman, I hold this open for a
fortnight after the date of publication.

“I am, Sir, yours, etc., John W. Hackworth.”

We do not think Robert Stephenson accepted the challenge; at all

events, no records of such a competition have ever been made public, and
had it taken place the victor would have doubtless well published the result.
The “Sanspareil” frequently attained a speed of 75 miles an hour on
favourable portions of the line. She was sold to the North Eastern Railway
by the executors shortly after the death of Timothy Hackworth, something
like £3,000 being obtained for the engine, which continued to work upon the
North Eastern Railway until recent years, having, of course, been rebuilt
during the long time it was in active service.
We have now to describe another specimen of the locomotives
constructed by the celebrated firm of Bury, Curtis and Kennedy. This
locomotive was one of the last engines built by the firm before its final
dissolution. The “Wrekin” was a six-wheel engine with inside bar frames and
inside cylinders, and was constructed for the Birmingham and Shrewsbury
Railway in 1849.
The special points noticeable in the construction of the engine in
question are the width of the framing, which was arranged horizontally
instead of vertically, and only two bearings to each axle. The axle-boxes of
the leading wheels were bolted to the frames, those of the other wheels
being welded to the frames, and the cylinders were also directly affixed to
the framing. An advantage claimed by the builders, as resulting from the
method of construction employed, was that the weight being placed entirely
within the wheels, such weight had a tendency to press down the axle
between the bearings, and so counteract the constant tendency arising from
the flanges of the wheels, when pressing against the edge of the rails,
especially in passing round curves.
The cylinders were 15in. diameter, the stroke being 20in. The driving
wheels were 5ft. 7in. diameter, the leading 4ft. 1in. and the trailing 3ft. 7in.
The boiler contained 172 brass tubes, 11ft. 6in. long and 2⅛in. external
diameter. The heating surface was: Tubes, 1,059 sq. ft.; fire-box, 80 sq. ft.;
total, 1,139 sq. ft. Grate area, 15 sq. ft.
No steam dome was provided, the main steam-pipe being of iron, with a
longitudinal opening ³/₁₆th inches wide along the top; this pipe extended to
the smoke-box, at which end of it the regulator valve was placed; the
actuating-rod passing through the main steam-pipe from end to end. Two
encased Salter safety valves were fixed on the fire-box. The wheel base of
the “Wrekin” was: leading to driving, 8ft. 1in.; driving to trailing, 6ft. 11in.
In 1849 the Vulcan Foundry Company supplied the Caledonian Railway
with an engine known as “No. 15.” In general appearance the locomotive
was very similar to Allan’s “Velocipede” engine on the London and North
Western Railway.
“No. 15” (Fig. 57) was a six-wheel engine, with inclined outside cylinders,
15in. diameter and 20in. stroke. The driving wheels were 6ft. diameter,
leading and trailing wheels 3ft. 6in. diameter. The boiler barrel was 9ft. 9in.
long and 3ft. 6¾4in. diameter, containing 158 brass tubes of 1¾in. external
diameter. Wheel base, L. to D., 6ft.; D. to T., 6ft. 6½in. The chimney was 6ft.
6in. high; on the centre of the boiler was a man-hole, surmounted by a
column safety valve of Salter’s pattern, the blowing-off steam pressure being
90lb. The steam dome was of brass, placed on the raised fire-box, and
surmounted with a second Salter’s safety valve. The driving and leading
wheels were provided with underhung springs, but the trailing wheels had
the springs over the axle-boxes. These latter springs were of elliptic shape,
and were provided with a screw device fixed on the foot-plate, by means of
which the weight was taken off the trailing wheels and thrown upon the
driving wheels.
In addition to the semi-circular brass name-plates (i.e., Caledonian
Railway) affixed to the splashers of the driving wheels, brass number-plates
of diamond shape (12in. long by 6in. diameter) were fixed on the buffer
beams of “No. 15.” The tender was supported on four wheels, 3ft. 6in.
diameter, and held 800 gallons of water.
Fig. 57.—CALEDONIAN RAILWAY ENGINE, “No. 15”

During June, 1849, “No. 15” made a number of trial trips between
Glasgow and Carlisle, with seven, eight, and nine coaches of an average
weight of five tons each, the weight of the engine and tender being 28 tons.
On the trips to Glasgow the Beattock Summit had, of course to be climbed.
This consists of 10 miles of stiff gradients, varying between 1 in 75, 80, and
88. The run of 13½ miles from Beattock to Elvanfoot, consisting of the 10
miles just described and of 3½ down at 1 in 100, was negotiated by “No. 15”
in 33 minutes, with a train of six coaches; with seven coaches the time was
41 minutes, and with a pilot and eleven coaches, 30 minutes, or at the rate
of 27 miles an hour. These were considered exceptionally good specimens
of hill-climbing performances 48 years back, but are, of course, entirely out
of comparison with modern Caledonian records over the same line with
much heavier trains.
Fig. 58.—“MAC’S MANGLE,” No. 227, L. & N.W.R.

McConnell, the locomotive superintendent of Wolverton, turned out

several remarkable locomotives for the London and North Western Railway,
and No. 227, or, as she was generally called, “Mac’s Mangle,” (Fig. 58), was
one of these peculiar specimens of McConnell’s design. The cylinders were
of large size, being 18in. diameter, with a 24in. stroke; they were outside, as
were also the axle bearings—a very uncommon combination. No. 227 was a
six-wheel “single” engine, the driving wheels being 6ft. 6in. diameter, and the
leading and trailing wheels 4ft. diameter. The fire-box was of the raised
pattern, and a Salter safety valve (encased) was fixed on it. A huge steam
dome was provided, located, originally, close to the smoke-box end of the
boiler barrel, but afterwards (in 1850) placed near the fire-box end, over the
driving wheels. The boiler-heating surface of “Mac’s Mangle” was 1,383 sq.
ft. No. 227 enjoyed but a short locomotive career, being built in April, 1849,
and “scrapped” in May, 1863. It is stated that in consequence of the extreme
width of this engine, caused by outside cylinders being employed in
conjunction with outside axle-boxes, it became necessary to set back the
platforms at some of the stations, so that the engine could clear these
erections without coming to grief.
Fig. 59.—“PRESIDENT,” ONE OF McCONNELL’S
“BLOOMERS,” L. & N.W.R AS ORIGINALLY
BUILT
In 1850 McConnell designed a very powerful class of passenger engines
for the L. and N. W. R. These are generally called the “Bloomers.”
“President” (Fig. 59) illustrates this favourite class of L. and N. W. R.
locomotive, when built. The cylinders were inside, 16in. diameter, with a
stroke of 22in. The driving wheels were 7ft. in diameter. The heating surface
was 1,152 sq. ft. These engines weighed 28¾ tons. (Fig. 60) is from a photo
of a “Bloomer” as rebuilt by Ramsbottom.

Fig. 60.—ONE OF McCONNELL’S “BLOOMERS” AS

REBUILT BY RAMSBOTTOM
CHAPTER X.
The locomotive exhibits of 1851—The “Hawthorn”—Wilson’s two-boiler engine, the
“Duplex”—Fairbairn’s tank engine—The S.E.R. “Folkestone” on Crampton’s system—
Sharp’s “single” engines for the S.E.R.—J. V. Gooch’s designs for the Eastern Counties
Railway—The “Ely,” Taff Vale Railway—Beattie’s “Hercules”—A much-vaunted
locomotive, McConnell’s “300” L. & N.W.R—London and Birmingham in two hours—The
chief features of “300”—Competitive trials with other engines—Coal v. coke—An earlier
“recessed” boiler—Dodd’s “Ysabel”—The first compound locomotive—Another Beattie
design—Pasey’s compressed air railway engine—Its trial trips on the Eastern Counties
Railway—The original (Great Northern engines Sturrock’s masterpiece, “No. 215,”
G.N.R.)—Pearson’s famous 9ft. “single” double-bogies, Bristol and Exeter Railway—
Rebuilt with 8ft. drivers, and a tender added by the G.W.R.—More old Furness Railway
engines—Neilson’s outside cylinder locomotives—A powerful goods engine on the
Maryport and Carlisle Railway—Gooch’s 7ft. coupled broad-gauge locomotives—His first
narrow-gauge engines.
The premier International Exhibition, which, as all the world well knows, was held
in Hyde Park, London, 1851, brought together quite a respectable collection of railway
appliances. The British exhibitors showed the following locomotives:—
London and North Western Railway’s “Cornwall” and “Liverpool.”
Great Western Railway’s “Lord of the Isles.”
Hawthorne’s express, “Hawthorn.”
Adams’ combined engine and carriage, “Ariel’s Girdle,”
built by Wilson and Co., Leeds.
England’s light locomotive, built by Fairbairn.
Fairbairn’s tank engine.
South Eastern Railway’s “Folkestone.”
E. B. Wilson and Co.’s double boiler tank engine.

Several of these have been described in an earlier chapter, whilst details of other
types (such as the “Lord of the Isles” type) have also been given, so that it is not
necessary to describe such designs again. We have, however, to give particulars of
Hawthorne’s express, Fairbairn’s tank, the “Folkestone,” and Wilson’s “double boiler”
tank engine. The dimensions of the first are: cylinders, 16in. diameter, 22in. stroke;
driving wheels, 6ft. 6in.; leading and trailing wheels, 3ft. 9in. diameter; heating surface
of fire-box, including water bridge, 110 sq. ft.; tubes, 865.4 sq. ft. The tubes were of
brass, of 2in. external diameter, and 158 in number.
The “Hawthorn” had inside cylinders and double sandwich frames, a raised fire-
box, with an enclosed safety valve, no dome, but a perforated steam-pipe for the
collection of the steam was provided. The engine was designed for running at 80 miles
an hour; the special features of the engine being double-compensating beams for
distributing the weight uniformly on all the wheels, equilibrium slide-valves, and an
improved expansion link suspended from the slide-valve rods. Instead of fitting a
spring to each wheel, two only were placed on each side of the engine between the
wheels. These springs were inverted, and sustained by central straps attached to the
framing. Their ends were connected by short links to the wrought-iron double-
compensating beams placed longitudinally on each side of the engine, inside and
beneath the framing.
The two inner contiguous ends of these beams were linked by a transverse pin to
an eye at the bottom of the axle-box of the driving axle, whilst the opposite ends of the
beams were respectively linked in a similar manner to eyes on the top of the leading
and trailing axle-boxes. The action of these beams was obvious. By them a direct and
simultaneous connection was given to all the axle bearings, and consequently a
uniform pressure was always maintained on all the wheels, irrespective of
irregularities on the permanent-way. The slide valves were placed on vertical faces in
a single steam chest, located between the two cylinders. One slide-valve had a plate
cast on its back, and the other had an open box cast on its back to receive a piston,
which had its upper end parallel with the valve face. This piston was fitted steam-tight
in the box, and its planed top bore against the face of the plate in working. By this
arrangement the slides were relieved from half of the steam pressure; and to assist a
free exhaust, a port was made in the back plate of one of the slides, so providing an
additional exit for the spent steam by means of the piston and the exhaust ports of the
opposite valve.
The expansion link was placed in such a position as to allow the bottom of the
boiler to be quite near the axle. The link, instead of being fixed to the ends of the
eccentric-rods, so as to rise and fall with them when the reversing lever was moved,
was suspended from its centre, by an eye, from the end of the slide-valve spindle.
This removed the weight of the link, etc., from off the reversing gear. The eccentric-
rods were jointed to the opposite ends of the link slide-block, to secure steadiness and
durability of the parts. It was claimed that this method of a fixed link-centre as fitted to
the “Hawthorn” ensured a more correct action of the valves.
Wilson and Co., of the Railway Foundry, Leeds, exhibited a curious tank engine at
the Exhibition of 1851, called the “Duplex,” in consequence of it being provided with
two boilers. The idea of the designer was to obtain sufficient steam from an engine of
light weight to haul a heavy train. The original drawings of this engine are still in the
possession of Mr. David Joy, who designed it; and at first it was proposed to build the
“Duplex” with three cylinders and six-coupled wheels, but afterwards fresh drawings
were prepared, and it was from these latter ones that the engine was built. The two
boilers were placed side by side, and these each measured 10ft. 6in. long by 1ft. 9in.
diameter, and together contained 136 tubes of 1¾in. diameter, the heating surface of
which was 694 sq. ft., that of the fire-box being 61 sq. ft., making a total of 755 sq. ft.
The cylinders were outside, their diameter being 12½in., and the stroke 18in. The
leading wheels were 3ft. 6in. diameter; the driving and trailing (coupled) 5ft. diameter.
Some other dimensions were:—Total length, 24ft. 3in.; breadth, 5ft. 3in.; height from
rail to top of chimney, 13ft. 6in.; weight, empty, only 16 tons, with fuel and water 19
tons 17 cwt. The capacity of tank was 520 gallons, sufficient for a journey of 25 miles;
coke bunker, 42 cubic feet, equal to 26 bushels, or 15 cwt. The “Duplex” was sold to a
Dutch railway after the Exhibition, and its further career is, therefore, unknown to
those interested in it.
Fairbairn’s tank locomotive was of the “well” type, supported on six wheels, the
driving pair being 5ft. diameter, and the L. and T. each 3ft. 6in. diameter. The cylinders
were inside, measuring 10in. by 15in. stroke. The boiler was 8ft. long by 3ft. diameter,
and contained 88 brass tubes of 2in. diameter. The heating surface amounted to 480
sq. ft. The internal fire-box was of copper, and measured 2ft. 5in. long, 3ft. wide, and
3ft. 5in. deep. The tank behind and under the foot-plate held 400 gallons of water. The
coke consumption of this little engine was only 10lb. per mile with trains of six
carriages, the weight in working order only 13 tons; and it may interest our readers to
know that this diminutive locomotive was described as “a fair specimen of the heavier
class of tank engine.

Fig. 61.-THE “FOLKESTONE,” A LOCOMOTIVE ON CRAMPTON’S

SYSTEM. BUILT FOR THE S.E.R., 1851
The engine calling for the greatest attention at the Exhibition of 1851 was the
“Folkestone” (Fig. 61), exhibited by the South Eastern Railway. This was an engine
built by R. Stephenson and Co., under one of Crampton’s patents, but the principal
feature in its design was an intermediate driving axle, connected by means of outside
cranks, and coupling-rods to the driving wheels, which were (under Crampton’s
patent) behind the fire-box, the axle extending across the foot-plate. It will be well,
perhaps, if we at this point reiterate the fact that the method of working locomotives by
means of an intermediate crank-shaft was not introduced by Crampton, it having been
used some years previously by W. B. Adams, not to mention some of the early
Stockton and Darlington Railway engines, where the same arrangement was
employed, but with vertical cylinders. Readers will, therefore, see it is incorrect to
describe locomotives with this system of machinery as “Crampton’s patent,” although it
is quite possible for a “Crampton patent” locomotive to be provided with an
intermediate driving shaft, as was the case with the “Folkestone.”
Eight engines of this type were built by Stephenson and Co. for the South Eastern
Railway, and were numbered 136 to 143, the first of which was named “Folkestone.”
These engines were supported by six wheels, a group of four being arranged close
together at the smoke-box end. Their diameter was 3ft. 6in. The driving wheels were
6ft. in diameter, the wheel base 16ft. These engines weighed 26¼ tons each, of which
only 10 tons were on the driving wheels, the remainder of the weight being supported
by the four leading wheels. The cylinders were inside, 15in. diameter, and the stroke
22in. The fire-box top was flush with the boiler barrel, the straight lines of which were
unrelieved by a dome, but an encased safety valve was fixed near the back of the fire-
box top. The boiler contained 184 tubes, of 2in. diameter and 11ft. in length.
The “Folkestone” ran its trial trip on Monday, March 31st, 1851, when Mr.
McGregor, the chairman of the South Eastern Railway, Mr. R. Stephenson, the builder
of the engine, Mr. Barlow, the South Eastern engineer, and Mr. Cudworth, the South
Eastern locomotive superintendent, were present. From London Bridge to Redhill no
great speed could be attained, as a Brighton train was in front; but beyond the latter
station, and with a train of nine carriages, the 19½ miles to Tonbridge were covered in
19½ minutes, a maximum speed of 75 miles an hour being attained. After a short stop,
the journey to Ashford was resumed, and that town was reached in 20½ minutes after
leaving Tonbridge. The times and distances were as follow:—Redhill to Tonbridge, 19
miles 47 chains, start to stop in 19½ minutes; Tonbridge to Ashford, 26 miles 45
chains, start to stop in 20½ minutes, or at the rate of 78 miles an hour; the whole 46
miles 12 chains being covered in 40 minutes, running time, or, including the stop at
Tonbridge, in 43 minutes. It must be remembered that the line between Redhill and
Ashford is, perhaps, the most level and straight in England for so long a distance.
These eight engines did not prove very successful in general working, and they
were afterwards rebuilt as four-coupled engines, an ordinary cranked axle with wheels
being provided in place of the intermediate driving shaft.
It will not be out of place if we here mention eight “single” engines built by Sharp
Bros. in 1851 for the South Eastern Railway, and numbered 144 to 151. The general
dimensions were similar to the Cramptons, except that the wheel base was only 15ft.,
and that the heating surface was 1,150 sq. ft. The admission of the steam to the
cylinders was controlled by a hand lever, with catch and notches, similar to and placed
by the side of the ordinary reversing lever. Six eccentrics were on the driving axle, two
of them working the pumps. The framing and springs of these engines were
afterwards perpetuated by Cudworth in his later and better known types of South
Eastern locomotives.
Fig. 62.—ONE OF J. V. GOOCH’S “SINGLE” TANK ENGINES,
EASTERN COUNTIES RAILWAY
The locomotives of the despised “Eastern Counties,” that were designed about
1850 by Mr. J. V. Gooch, will now be concisely described. They were of three kinds—
viz., “single” tanks, “single” express, and four-wheels-coupled tender engines. Of the
tanks, three sizes were constructed, chiefly at the “Hudson Town” (or Stratford Works).
The largest of these were provided with outside cylinders, 14in. diameter and 22in.
stroke, the boiler being 10ft. 6in. long, and containing 164 tubes of 1³/₁₆th in. diameter.
The leading and trailing wheels had outside bearings, the driving wheels being
provided with inside bearings only. A steam dome was placed over the raised fire-box,
and a screw-lever safety valve on the boiler barrel. The water was stored in two tanks,
fixed between the frames, one below the boiler and the other beneath the foot-plate.
These tank engines were known as the “250” class, and some of our readers may
recollect that when Peto, Brassey and Betts leased the London, Tilbury and Southend
Railway, engines of this design were used to work the traffic on that railway. We
understand it is now 20 years since the last of them (No. 08) reached the final bourne
of worn-out locomotives—the “scrap heap.”
The dimensions of the smallest class of these tanks (Fig. 62) were: Cylinders, 12in.
diameter, 22in. stroke; boiler, 10ft. long and 3ft. 2in. diameter, 127 tubes of 1⅞th in.
diameter; the total heating surface was 709 sq. ft.; grate area, 9.7 sq. ft. The driving
wheels were 6ft. 6in. diameter, and the L. and T. 3ft. 8in. The total weight of these
engines was 23 tons 19 cwt., of which 9 tons 14 cwt. was on the driving axle. The
wheel base was: L. to D., 6ft. 3in.; D. to T., 5ft. 9in.
J. V. Gooch’s four-coupled, or “Butterflies,” had leading wheels 3ft. 8in. diameter,
and driving and trailing (coupled) 5ft. 6in. Wheel base, L. to D., 6ft. 3in.; D. to T., 7ft.
9in. The cylinders were 15in. diameter, the stroke being 24in. The boilers of this class,
and also of the singles, next to be described, were of the same dimensions as those of
the “250” class of tanks.
The “single” expresses were provided with 6ft. 6in. driving wheels, and cylinders
15in. diameter and a 22in. stroke; in this class also the leading and trailing wheels
were 3ft. 8in. diameter. The wheel base was 14ft., the driving wheels being 6ft. 9in.
from the leading and 7ft. 3in. from the trailing wheels. Ten engines of this design were
constructed, some at Stratford, and others at the then recently opened Canada Works
of Brassey and Co. at Birkenhead. Their official numbers were from 274 to 283.
The “Ely” (Fig. 63) represents the type of 6-wheel passenger engine in use on the
Taff Vale Railway at this period. She was built in 1851 by Messrs. Kitson and
Company, from Taff Vale designs. She had 13in. cylinders, with 20in. stroke, and four-
wheels-coupled, of 5ft. 3in. diameter. She carried a pressure of 100lbs., she had a
four-wheel tender, carrying 900 gallons of water, and as the gross weight of the tender
was about 11 tons in working order, the gross weight of the engine and tender would
be 33 tons. The “Ely” could not take a train of three carriages, weighing only 21 tons,
up the Abercynon bank of 1 in 40 without the assistance of a “bank” engine.
In 1851 Mr. Beattie, the locomotive superintendent at Nine Elms, built for the
London and South Western Railway the four-wheels-coupled engine, “Hercules,” No.
48. The frames of this engine were of the “lattice” type, examples of which can be still
seen on some of the older Great Northern Railway tanks.
The diameter of wheels was: L., 3ft. 6in.; D. and T., 5ft. 6in.; tender, 3ft. 6in.; wheel
base, L. to D., 7ft. 1in.; D. to T., 6ft. 6in.; T. to leading tender, 7ft. 3½in.; the tender
wheel base being 10ft. 3in. equally divided.

Fig. 63.—“ELY,” A TAFF VALE RAILWAY ENGINE, BUILT IN 1851

The weight was distributed as follows:—Engine, L. axle, 8 tons 17 cwt.; D., 9 tons
17 cwt.; T., 9 tons 16 cwt.; tender, L., 4 tons 19 cwt.; M., 6 tons 19 cwt.; T., 7 tons 10
cwt. The cylinders were 15in. by 22in.; tractive force on rail, 7,500lb.; 1,800 gallons of
water could be carried in the tender tank. The “Hercules” had a flush top boiler, and a
raised fire-box surmounted by a large inverted, urn-shaped dome. This design of
locomotive was a favourite one on the London and South Western Railway for many
years, but the last engine of the kind has now been scrapped.
Having favoured the London and South Western Railway, to equalise matters, we
cannot do better than give a description of a locomotive belonging to its cousin-
german, the London and North Western Railway. The latter was indeed the more
famous, being no other than McConnell’s notorious “No. 300,” (Fig. 64) which, being
introduced with a vast amount of publicity, became a nine days’ wonder, then sank into
quiescent mediocrity, and after a brief locomotive career, was seen no more—a rather
different fate, be it observed, to that of the London and South Western Railway’s
“Hercules.”
It has been stated that only one drawing of this engine exists. This is incorrect; the
writer possesses a complete set of drawings relating to “No. 300,” together with the
whole of the specifications from which the engine was constructed. To reproduce this
specification in detail would give too technical a character to this narrative, and would
try the patience of even the most ardent locomotive enthusiast.
The directors of the London and North Western Railway in 1851 expressed their
determination to run their express trains from London to Birmingham in two hours, and
gave instructions to McConnell, the locomotive superintendent at Wolverton, to design
the necessary locomotives. The salient features of the design were: Inside cylinders,
18in. by 14in.; six wheels, with inside and outside frames; driving wheels, 7ft. 6in.
diameter; leading, 4ft. 6in.; and trailing, 4ft. diameter.
The boiler was 11ft. 9in. long and 4ft. 3¼in. external diameter. The tubes were of
brass, 303 in number, only 7ft. in length, and 1¾in. outside diameter. The crank axle
bearings were—outside, 7in. deep and 10in. in length, the inside ones being 7in. and
4¼in. respectively. The leading and training axles were hollow, the metal being 1½in.
thick, and the hollow centre 4½in. diameter, thus making the total diameter of the
straight axles 7½in. The slide-valves had an outside lap of 1¼in. The principal
innovations were: Coleman’s patent india-rubber springs, fitted below the driving axle
and above the leading and trailing axles, and also to the buffers. McDonnell’s patent
dished wrought-iron pistons, forged in one piece with the piston-rod, and encased with
continuous undulating flat metal packing. The steam-pipe was of flat section, and
passed through a superheating chest in the smoke-box; the steam was thus dried
during its journey from the dome to the cylinders. The great feature of the design was
the arrangement of the fire-box, with a mid-feather, a combustion chamber, hollow
stays for a free supply of air to the fire-box, and the cutting away of the bottom of the
fire-box to obtain clearance for the cranks and yet retain a low centre of gravity with
large driving wheels. Assertion to the contrary notwithstanding, it should be observed
that so much did McConnell insist upon a low centre of gravity that he specially
mentioned it in his patent specification of February 28th, 1852.
A more particular description of the fire-box, etc., is requisite. It extended into the
cylindrical portion of the boiler a distance of 4ft. 9in., so that the boiler tubes were only
7ft. long. The whole length of the fire-box was 10ft. 6in.; depth at front-plate 6ft. 5in., at
door-plate 6ft. 10in.; length on fire-bars 5ft. 10¼in., thus leaving 4ft. 7¾in. for the
portion over the axle and the combustion chamber. At its narrow part (directly at the
top of the recess above the driving axle) the fire-box was only 2ft. 3in. in height; height
at tube-plate 3ft. (beyond the cut away portion); width at tube-plate 3ft. 9in. It will be
noticed that Webb’s “Greater Britain” class of locomotives is designed with the long
fire-box and combustion chamber; but as Mr. Webb, unlike McConnell, does not object
to the high pitched boiler, the former does not recess the boiler barrel for the purpose
of obtaining a low centre. Webb also divides his tubes into two sets by having the
combustion chamber between them. McConnell’s combustion chamber was a
continuation of the fire-box. We must now describe the general appearance of this
engine.

Fig. 64.—McCONNELL’S “300,” LONDON AND NORTH WESTERN

RAILWAY
The cylinders were inclined upwards from the front, and the valve chests were
above them, below the smoke-box. Two Salter safety valves were provided, encased
within a sheet-brass covering of Stirling’s Great Northern pattern. The steam pressure
was 150lbs. The dome was also of brass, with a hemispherical top surmounting the
cylindrical lower part. The steam regulator was at the mouth of the steam-pipe, which
was placed at the top of the dome (inside, of course).
The heating surface was: Tubes, 980 sq. ft.; fire-box, 260 sq. ft. Wheel base, 16ft.
10in. Sufficient steam could be raised in 45 minutes after lighting the fire to move the
engine. Two of these engines were built about the same time—one (No. 300) by
Fairbairn and Co., Manchester, the other by E. B. Wilson and Co., Leeds. The orders
were given early in July, 1852, and the engines delivered the second week in
November, Wilson and Co. having occupied but eight weeks in the construction of the
one given to them.
Both engines were delivered at Wolverton on the same day, and on Thursday,
November 11th, 1852, Wilson’s engine was tried for the first time, when on her first
journey to Euston she attained a speed of 60 miles an hour.
It was soon found that “No. 300” and her sister engine were unable to cover the
111 miles—Euston to Birmingham—in two hours, as was confidently predicted, and
the failure to do so was—perhaps justly—attributed to the inferior condition of the
permanent-way. On March 8th, 1853, “No. 300” hauled a train of 34 carriages,
weighing 170 tons, from Birmingham to London in three hours eight minutes, including
five stoppages. A similar train drawn by the “Heron” and “Prince of Wales” took ten
minutes longer to perform the same journey. These two engines had cylinders 15in. by
20in., and 6ft. driving wheels. The results of this trial are thus tabulated:—
Coke. Average speed Maximum speed
Coke.
per mile. per hour. per hour.
No. 300 4,529 lb. 40.8 lb. 36.4 miles 54
“Heron” & “Prince of Wales” 4,851 lb. 43.7 lb. 34.5 miles 48

Upon the result of this run it was claimed that McConnell’s patent engines were
considerably superior to two of the ordinary London and North Western Railway
locomotives, and one of Stephenson’s “long boiler” abortions was altered by
McConnell, being fitted up with his patent combustion chamber, short tubes, and the
other innovations, as mentioned in our description of “No. 300.”
The “long boiler” originally had 1,013 sq. ft. of tube-heating surface; when altered,
the length of the tubes was reduced to 4¾ft., and some additional ones were fixed
diagonally across the combustion chamber. By this alteration the tube-heating surface
was reduced to 547 sq. ft., and the engine is stated to have drawn 170 tons at 60
miles an hour, and to have attained a speed of 70 miles an hour with light trains. From
the working of this locomotive the following table (by which a reduction of 23 per cent.
in the amount of fuel consumed was claimed for the altered engine) was prepared:—
Coke
Miles Average Coke Coke
per ton
run. load. consumed. per mile.
per mile.
Original 29,442 115 tons 1,715,952 lb. 58.28 lb. .564 lb.
Altered 12,060 144 tons 519,120 lb. 43.04 lb. .298 lb.

But D. K. Clark’s paper on “Locomotive Boilers,” read before the Institution of Civil
Engineers, soon placed a very different complexion upon the result of the trials
between the ordinary and patent engines, resulting in the “air-tubes” to the combustion
chamber being speedily abandoned. The attention of the directors of the London and
North Western Railway was called to the failure of these engines, with the result that
they ordered Messrs. Marshall and Wood to report on the two classes of engines—
viz., the ordinary London and North Western type and McConnell’s patent
locomotives. This report was ready in August, 1853, but for some reason its
publication was suppressed at the time, but the directors countermanded the
construction of other engines already ordered on McDonnell’s patent principle.
In the summer of 1854 Marshall and Wood conducted another set of experiments
for the directors of the London and North Western Railway, with the object of
determining the relative value of coke and coal as fuel for the locomotives.
The engines chosen were McConnell’s patent “No. 303” and the “Bloomer,” No.
293. Double trips were run between Rugby and London daily for six consecutive days,
coal being burnt on three days and coke on the three alternate days. The trains
chosen were the 12.55 p.m. up and 5.45 p.m. down.
It was found that 1lb. of coal evaporated 5.83lb. of water, and 1lb. of coke 8.65lb.
of water; but the monetary saving was 6s. 9d. per ton in favour of coal.
McConnell’s patent engines were again condemned. Marshall and Wood’s report
concluded as follows: “Although we consider the experiments we made with No. 303
engine satisfactory in point of smoke burning, we cannot resist the belief that the
consumption of coal is in excess of what it ought to be, and that there is room for
considerable improvement in this respect, by means which shall tend to utilise the
heat which is at present wasted.”
The whole report is of great interest to the technical reader; it is, however, too long
to reproduce in extenso.
It is abundantly evident that there is no great pecuniary gain from locomotive
designing, or we should be treated to great law-suits regarding the validity of the
patents, such as have recently been the case with pneumatic tyres and incandescent
gas-burners. We have already, upon more occasions than one, pointed out that certain
patented locomotive designs had previously been anticipated, although the later
patentees were probably unaware of the fact. We find this to have been the case with
McConnell’s “recessed” boiler locomotives just described, for on December 2nd, 1846,
W. Stubbs and J. J. Grylls, of Llanelly, enrolled a design of locomotive. The
specification in question not only mentioned the recessing of the boiler for the purpose
of allowing the use of a large driving wheel and yet retaining a low centre of gravity,
but it even anticipated McConnell’s combustion chamber between the fire-box and
tubes. An adaptation of Bodmer’s double piston motion was also specified by Stubbs
and Grylls. The two cylinders were placed below the boiler, four wheels being
connected by means of side-rods with the cross-heads of the two cylinders in such a
manner that from each cylinder two wheels were driven, by means of a cross-head,
and each cross-head, by means of two connecting-rods, rotating the wheels. Another
claim under this patent related to driving a locomotive by eccentrics fitted with
antifriction rollers as a substitute for the ordinary cranks.
Although in the “Evolution of the Steam Locomotive” it is only intended to describe
locomotives for British railways, it may not be out of place to mention an engine for a
foreign railway, for two reasons—first, because it was built by an English firm in
England, and, secondly, because it was tried on an English railway before exportation.
The “Ysabel” was constructed in 1853 by Dodds and Sons, of Rotherham, for the
“Railway of Isabella II. from Santander to Abar del Rey,” and was tried on the Lickey
incline of 1 in 37 for two miles, under the direction of Mr. Stalvies, the locomotive
superintendent at Broomsgrove. The “Ysabel” had four-coupled wheels 4ft. 6in.
diameter; cylinders, 14¼in. by 20in. stroke; 137 tubes, 1⅞in. diameter, and 11ft. 3in. in
length, and was fitted with Dodds’ patent wedge expansive motion, which required
only two eccentrics. For the purpose of easy transportation, the “Ysabel” was so
constructed that when disconnected no single portion weighed more than six tons; in
addition to the fittings necessary to secure the boiler, the only connections between it
and the frames, machinery, etc., were the steam-pipe and the two feed-pump
connections. When tried upon the Lickey bank this locomotive hauled six trucks
weighing 45 tons 12¾ cwt. up the two miles one furlong in 12 minutes 12 seconds,
and with a train weighing 29 tons 4¼ cwt. the incline was negotiated in seven minutes
five seconds.
The compound locomotive is not quite so modern an invention as is popularly
supposed, for, putting aside the suggestion emanating in 1850 from John Nicholson,
an Eastern Counties Railway engine-driver, whose plan of continuous expansion is
generally accepted as the foundation of the compound system, we find that in 1853 a
Mr. Edwards, of Birmingham, patented a “duplex” or in other words a compound
engine, the steam, after working in a high-pressure cylinder, being used over again in
a low-pressure one. The cylinders were so placed that the dead centre in one
occurred when the other piston was at its maximum power.
In 1853 Beattie constructed for the London and South Western Railway at Nine
Elms Works, the “Duke,” No. 123, a six-wheel “single” express engine; driving wheels,
6ft. 6in. diameter; L. and T. 3ft. 6in. diameter; cylinders, 16in. by 21in. stroke. The
weight was arranged in an extraordinary manner, 10 tons 9 cwt. being on the leading
axle, only 9 tons 9 cwt. on the driving axle, and 5 tons 11 cwt. on the trailing axle. The
wheel base was, L. to D., 6ft. 8½in.; D. to T., 7ft. 6in. The “Duke” had a raised fire-box,
surmounted by a large dome similar to that of the “Hercules,” whilst another dome was
located on the centre of the boiler barrel. The shape of this centre dome resembled a
soup-tureen turned upside down.
At this point we take the opportunity to briefly describe a railway locomotive which,
although not propelled by steam, deserves to be mentioned as an initial attempt at
railway haulage by means of compressed air.
The engine in question was constructed by Arthur Pasey, and was tried on the
Eastern Counties Railway in July, 1852. This machine was, in point of size and power,
nothing more than a model, the dimensions being: Cylinders, 2½in. diameter, 9in.
stroke; driving wheels, 4ft. diameter; weight, 1½ tons; air capacity of reservoirs, 39
cubic ft.

Fig. 65.—PASEY’S COMPRESSED AIR LOCOMOTIVE, TRIED ON

THE EASTERN COUNTIES RAILWAY IN 1852
By reference to the illustration (Fig. 65) it will be seen that this curious little
locomotive had the six wheels of 4ft. diameter within the frames, and the horizontal
cylinders outside the frames, and actuating the centre pair of wheels. Above the
frames was placed a cylindrical air reservoir, with egg shaped ends. This extended
from the buffer beam at one end of the vehicle to the leading axle, a distance of about
12ft. The remainder of the space, about 4ft., was occupied by the pressure-reducing
and other apparatus, and afforded a place of vantage for those in charge of the
machine. The reservoir was constructed to withstand a pressure of 200lb., but the
engine was only pressed to 165lb., and this at the time of the trial at Stratford was