Guide on how to read Basic Pattern Symbols

This guide to reading sewing patterns should help clear up any confusion you may have about pattern
symbols, fabric lay plans, grainlines, body measurements, fabric types and more!

A sewing/drafting/draping pattern consists of several elements, whether you buy a

physical paper pattern, or a digital PDF pattern:

•Sewing pattern with different lines and symbols

•Size guide
•Finished garment measurements
•Fabric lay-plan
•Sewing instructions
Seam Allowance
The designer will not state on the pattern the different seam allowance amounts, and
these can vary depending on what section you’re sewing.
Some patterns are created with a 1 cm seam allowance and others are designed with a
half inch seam allowance – the latter is about 1.25 cm.

Hem line seam allowance usually is 4cm or dependable on designer's requirement.

What Is A Pattern Piece?

A pattern piece is a section of the whole sewing pattern. If you were planning to sew a
shirt, you would have the following sections to sew:
•Back yoke
•Sleeve
•Cuff
•Placket
•Patch pocket
•Collar stand
•Collar
Each of those is usually a pattern piece. Unless it is a more complicated design in which case the front or
back could be made up of multiple pattern pieces.

Each of these pattern pieces would have various symbols and lines as a visual guide of what needs to
be done with each pattern piece.
What Are The Lines And Pattern Symbols On Pattern Pieces?
•Cutting lines •Gathers
•Notches •Tucks
•Grainline •Pleats
•Fold line •Pockets
•Lengthen / shorten lines •Buttons and buttonholes
•Darts •Bust point
•Gathers
What Is A Cutting Line?
On every sewing pattern you’ll see cutting lines. There are usually quite a few, overlapping in
places.

Digital patterns are sometimes ‘nested’ which allows you to select one or more sizes to print and
cut.

This is handy as there are then fewer cutting lines on the paper and you are less likely to cut the
wrong lines.
Cutting lines are differentiated by style:

•Dotted
•Dash then dot
•Varying dash lengths

Each cutting line style is assigned a size and that is the line you cut for all the pattern pieces.
Dashed-and-Dotted Lines
To mark the center front and center back of a garment, the pattern may have a dashed-and-
dotted line. This is helpful when you’re fitting a pattern, as you’ll know exactly where the
center front or back is meant to be. It may be labeled with “CB” for center back and “CF” for
center front.

Dashed & Solid Lines

When a pattern shows a short dashed line beside a short solid line (or two short solid lines)
with an arrow pointing from one to the other, it’s indicating where to fold pleats. Pinch and fold
the fabric in the direction of the arrow, then pin or baste it in place.
What Are The Notches For On A Pattern?

Notches on a pattern are matching points. You use notches to make sure that your pattern
pieces are correctly matched up.

It could be the sleeve notch matching up with an Armscye notch or a Centre front notch on the
shirt front that will line up with the Centre front on your collar stand pattern piece.

It is standard to have single notches for front and double notches for back pattern pieces.
As an example, a sleeve would have a single notch for the section to be sewn to the front
bodice, and a double notch on the section to be sewn to the back bodice.
How Do You Cut Notches In Sewing?

Most commercial sewing patterns will have little triangles on them and these are the notches.
Some older pattern companies will have the notches pointing outwards, while most indie pattern
designers have the notches pointing inwards.

To cut them, I use my paper scissors for that section, and make a little snip into the fabric and
pattern, usually no more than 2-3 mm.
What Is Cut Two In Sewing?

When your sewing pattern tells you to cut two, it means to place the fabric together – either right or
wrongs sides facing – and to place the pattern piece upon this.
By cutting two pieces in this way you are creating a symmetrical pair.

What Is A Fold Line On A Sewing Pattern?

That folded edge will not have seam allowance

factored in as there will be a fold and no sewn
seam.
Diamonds or Giant Triangles

If you see a large triangle that stretches from the bust to the waist, or a diamond that
extends from the bust to the hips, it’s a dart. (Usually, the lines are dashed, but
occasionally you’ll see one that’s drawn with solid lines.) Darts are sewn to add three-
dimensionality to a garment, so it will fit the curves of your body.

Many darts are marked with dots at the tip and at the seam allowances. Some also
have a thin, solid line running down the center, which shows you where to fold the
fabric prior to sewing the dart. If there is no fold-line, fold the dart so the seam
allowance dots line up, and then sew along the dashed lines.
Buttons And Buttonholes

Buttons and their buttonholes are marked carefully on pattern pieces to ensure an accurate
placement.

There’s nothing worse than having a button slightly off and affecting how the fabric sections line up
when buttoned up!
What Is The Grainline On A Sewing Pattern?
The grain line on a pattern piece is an arrow showing you how to line up the fabric and pattern piece.

Straight Grain

The grain line will have an arrow at one end. This line should be placed parallel to the straight grain of the fabric.

Bias Cut

Fabric cut at a 45º angle to the selvedge is called the bias. There is more stretch and drape on this angle, so it
is frequently used for tops and dresses that have no darting.
Gathering Lines

When fabric is to be gathered, it can be shown on a pattern as either a straight line or a wavy line
between two points.

To gather the fabric, I use the longest stitch available to me on my sewing machine, and sew between the
two points.

Back stitch when starting, but leave the other end open, so that the threads can be pulled through and
gathered.

You’ll know what measurement to gather the fabric to from the sewing instructions, but this can often be
understood from the notches on the connecting pattern piece.
Crossed Circles

A circle with a cross or X through it is used to mark the center bust point—the apex of the
bust, which generally falls at the middle of your breast. (About where your nipple is,
provided you’re wearing a decent bra.) Sometimes, the same symbol is used to mark the
waistline and hipline, too. Use these symbols to help you fit the pattern correctly.
•Dots, Squares, Etc.

Dots, squares, and other small shapes are used as match points, much like notches, or they’re used to
indicate where to start and stop sewing. For example, a dot halfway up the center back of a skirt
pattern probably indicates where you should stop sewing to leave room for the zipper. The square on a
sleeve head is going to line up with a corresponding square on the armscye, so you can attach the
sleeve properly. Dots on the side of a pants pattern will indicate where the in-seam pockets go.
How Symbols Appear on the Paper Pattern/ Draping

Dart

1cm
Seam allowance

To extend length
or shorten

4cm
Seam allowance
Example 6 Gored Skirt

single notches single notches single notches

single notches

single notches

Double notches
Double notches
Cut on fold

Side Back Skirt Self cut x 2

Side Front Skirt Self cut x 2

Cut on fold

Center Front Skirt Self cut x 1

Center Back Skirt Self cut x 1

single notches

Double notches
single notches

single notches single notches

single notches single notches