CT-MMB.

181

Layout, Cutting, and Marking

LAYOUT After deciding on a layout view for the pattern

size and fabric width, circle it so it is easy to
After purchasing fabric, pattern, notions, and see. (Figure 3) Then, look carefully at the
preparing the fabric (on grain and layout to find:
preshrunk/washed), you are ready to do the
pattern layout. A layout is a plan for the
placement of pattern pieces on the fabric.
(Figure 1)

Figure 3

$ if the fabric is folded, is it lengthwise or

crosswise or a combination of the two.
(Figure 4)
Figure 1

The pattern guide sheet will probably have

several layout illustrations to study. These are
based on pattern size, fabric width, and type of
fabric (napped, one-way design, etc.).
(Figure 2) It is often helpful to study and
“play with” various layout situations.
Sometimes a different layout will enable you
to better utilize your fabric. However, do not
depart from the suggested layout unless you Figure 4
fully understand layout design and realize that
many fabrics need a specific (with nap) layout $ which pattern pieces are to be used.
due to color shading or fabric design. $ which layout view is for special fabrics
such as nap, one-way designs, or color
shading (all pattern pieces MUST be
turned in the same direction). (Figure 5)
$ if the fabric is cut on single or double
thickness. (Figure 5)

Figure 2
like. Some fabrics are easily marred and
damaged by pins. These fabrics include
UltrasuedeJ, leather, and leather-like
fabric.

Figure 7
Figure 5
Place pattern pieces, matching grain by
Preparing for Layout measuring and using pins to secure along
1. When the selected layout view has you the grainline arrow. (Figure 7) To do this
fold the fabric, fold it with right sides correctly, position the pattern piece.
together. This will make marking easier. Next, measure the distance from one end
Place the fabric on a large cutting surface of the arrow to the selvage or to the folded
such as a cutting board, table, or cabinet edge. Move to the other end of the arrow
counter-top. and measure. The distance should be the
same at both ends. Pin at each end of the
After the pattern pieces you need have arrows.
been selected, smooth the folds out by
hand or lightly press. If there are pattern When pattern pieces are on the fold, be
pieces for interfacing and/or lining, press sure to place them exactly on the fold.
them and put them aside. (Figure 8) If a piece is to be cut on a
single thickness, be sure to flip the pattern
Most garments are made with the over to cut the second one. Otherwise,
lengthwise grain running vertically on the you can end up with two pieces for the
body. Place the pattern pieces on the same side. When cutting on double
fabric, positioning them on the grainline fabric, the pattern pieces may be laid right
until all pattern pieces are on the fabric. or wrong side up.
Always start with the large pieces first.
(Figure 6)

Figure 8

Figure 6 Some fabrics require a one-way layout.

(Figure 9) This special layout is needed
2. Patterns may be secured to the fabric for napped or pile fabrics (such as
by pinning or by weights. Actual Apattern corduroy, velvet, velveteen), one-way
weights@ can be purchased, but some designs (such as flowers Agrowing@ in
people use items they have available such only one direction), and some plaids.
as empty glasses, paper weights, or the Knits and some woven fabrics exhibit a

2
color shading when the pattern direction is
changed. When in doubt, it is advisable to
use a one-way layout to avoid a potential
problem. (Figure 9)

Figure 11

P Some fabrics are printed with one-way

designs and need a Anap@ layout.
P Check large designs since they may
need matching, especially at center
Figure 9
seams.
P Plaids and stripes require matching (at
A one-way layout will direct you to lay all
the seamline, not the cutting line) in
pattern pieces heading the same direction.
both the lengthwise and crosswise
directions, if possible.
After all pattern pieces have been
P Uneven stripes and plaids require a one-
positioned grain perfect, complete the
way or “with nap” layout.
pinning process. Place the pins in the
fabric with their points in toward the
outer edge of the pattern. (Figure 9) CUTTING

3. Pins should be perpendicular to the Standards

stitching lines and the cutting line. A well-cut item:
(Figure 10) $ should be accurate and even throughout.
$ has notches cut out away from pattern.
Figure 10 $ has smooth edges—no pinking shears.

Consider and/or follow these general

Place only enough suggestions when cutting fabric:
pins to hold the P Use sharp scissors, shears, or rotary
pattern in place. cutter.
Putting too many pins in the pattern piece P When using scissors or shears make
can actually cause you to cut the piece long smooth cuts. (Figure 12)
larger than is needed. However, be sure to
pin at corners and along straight and
curved edges.

Special Layouts
P All napped and knit fabrics require
that pattern pieces be laid with their
Atops@ in the same direction (one-way
or with nap layout). Figure 12
P If using a rotary cutter, use a ruler
on all straight lines.
P Never use pinking or scalloping
shears for cutting out a garment.
P Accurately cut on the pattern
cutting line.
P Hold the pattern flat with one hand

3
as you cut with the other. (Figure MARKING
12) Do not lift fabric off the table or
cutting surface while cutting. Standards
P Cut notches out. (Figure 13) A well-marked item:
$ will have markings appropriate for the
fabric. Select a type and substance that
will not damage the fabric and can be
removed easily after construction.
$ shows only on the wrong side of
fabric, or does not damage or
Figure 13
compromise the appearance on the
P Trace seam lines on fusible right side after construction is
interfacing before cutting out. Cut complete .
just outside this marking, so there $ has distinctive, accurate marks to aid
will be no need to trim the seam in the sewing process.
allowance later. (Figure 14)
Accurate marking throughout garment
construction is extremely important. This
process begins with marking pattern symbols.
How and where you mark the garment will
aid you in putting the garment together.

Figure 14 Marking should be done as soon as the

garment sections have been cut and before the
$ Cut several garments at one time pattern pieces have been removed. Pattern
while you have the cutting board out. symbols to be marked include darts, pleats,
$ Cut everything needed for your project tucks, and matching circles. Beginners
at one time – fabric, interfacing, and should also mark seam lines. In some
lining. situations, marking a seamline is important to
$ Place a rubber band on your ruler or even the most experienced sewer.
sewing gauge for exact measurement
when measuring. (Figure 15) There are several methods of marking fabric.
The method selected depends on the fabric,
your skill, and the construction situation. No
one method is suitable for all fabrics. It is not
uncommon to use more than one method in a
single garment.

Always test the marking method on a fabric

Figure 15 scrap before using it. Some methods can
$ You can cut more accurately when damage delicate fabrics. Other may
using shears with long blades making encourage layers of fabric to shift so you will
long cuts—or, use a rotary cutter with not have the same markings on all layers.
a ruler on straight lines.
With some methods, you may Alose@ the
marking before you have the garment
assembled. Consider the following as you
select a marking method.

4
$ Tracing wheel and dressmaker=s tracing fabric, so each layer has a marking.
paper is suitable only for firmly woven (Figure 18)
fabrics. It is especially good for woven
linings and interfacing. (Figure 16)

Figure 18

Figure 16 Tailor=s tacks are NOT a suitable marking

method for fabrics that are damaged by
It is not appropriate for: pin holes.
$ Sheers or light colors as marking
may show through to the right side. $ Pin marking is faster, but you must be
$ Knits or stretch fabrics as marking very accurate and careful not to Alose@ the
will not be accurate because of the pins. On some fabrics the pins will pull
stretchiness of the fabric. through or cause damage to the fabric.
$ Woolens may be too thick for
tracing to transfer well. Pins can be used for marking provided
$ Silk/silk-like or napped fabrics they are accurately inserted. This method
because the Ateeth@ from the wheel is usually for the more accomplished
may pick or mar the fabric. You sewer. However, it is not a suitable
may be able to use a smooth wheel. method for some fabrics. This method is
Always test before using. not appropriate when:
$ The fabric shows pin holes or
$ Tailor=s tacks take a lot of time but are the markings.
best choice for delicate fabrics. Tailor=s $ The fabric is delicate and easily
tacks are used to mark circles on high damaged.
quality fabrics and fabrics that are loosely $ The fabric is loosely woven or knitted.
constructed. To make: Pins can slip Athrough@ it easily.
1. Use a hand needle with double thread $ The pattern requires lines to be marked.
(unknotted).
2. At each circle (dot on pattern) take a Directions for how to pin mark:
stitch through both fabric layers
forming a 1-inch loop, leaving about 2 1. Insert
pins into all circle markings on the
inches of thread at the beginning and at pattern. (Figure 19)
the end. (Figure 17)

Figure 19
2. Turn garment piece over and insert another
Figure 17
pin where the first pin is. This marks both
3. Gently pull off the pattern piece, being garment pieces when pattern has been cut
careful not to disturb loops. on double-thickness.
4. Pull the two fabric layers apart. 3. Unpin pattern pieces from the fabric and
5. Clip the thread between the two layers of gently pull pin heads through the paper

5
pattern. (Figure 20) y Marking pens should be washable. Read the
package directions carefully since some
markings disappear after a few hours. Pens
are used the same way as tailor=s chalk,
marking pencils and soap slivers. Fabric-
marking pens may or may not wash out and
are only as accurate as you are. Soap slivers
Figure 20 are ideal, especially for washable fabrics.
4. Pullgarment sections apart. (Figure 21)
SUMMARY
Insert pins into fabric while staystitching,
Careful attention to your pattern layout,
or immediately fold to form dart, matching
cutting, and marking will ensure:
pins.
$ a garment that is on grain,
$ the Asame@ color or shading for all
garment pieces, and
$ a balanced design throughout.

Figure 21 General Rules for Success:

$ Always test on a scrap of the fabric you
y Tailor=s Chalk, Dressmaker=s Pencils, Soap plan to use.
Slivers $ Select dressmaker=s tracing paper as
Tailor=s chalk, dressmaker=s pencils, and close to the color of your fabric as
soap slivers are primarily used for marking possible.
widths, such as hems and seams since they $ Be sure to mark only on the wrong side
only mark one layer at a time. Each of of the fabric.
these easily rubs off, so be careful. Some $ Mark only the underlining material,
individuals combine one or more of these when underlining a garment.
methods with pins, marking at the pin
marking and then removing the pin. Soap Remember: No one method is suitable for all
slivers can be used in place of tailor=s chalk fabrics. Select the one most suited for your
or dressmaker=s pencil. fabric, skill and construction situation.
Permission to use granted by Institute of Food &
Agriculture Sciences, University of Florida,
Gainesville, Florida.

Prepared by Nadine Hackler, Associate Professor

Extension Clothing Specialist. (retired)
Adapted for use in Kentucky by:
Linda Heaton, Ph.D., Extension Specialist for Clothing
& Textiles (retired)
Figure 21
Revised by:
Marjorie M. Baker, M.S.
Extension Associate for Clothing & Textiles

1985; revised December 1997; revised May 2007

Copyright © 2007 for materials developed by University of Kentucky Cooperative Extension. This publication may be reproduced in portions or its
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