Night Driving

According to a survey, death rate due to accident fatalities at night is three times more than that
in the day. Here’s a few tips to drive safe at night.

There are many hazards associated with driving at night and most of us aren’t aware of ways to
deal with them. The primary reason why night driving is so dangerous is darkness. Ninety
percent of a driver’s reaction depends on vision which is severely limited at night. Depth
perception, color recognition and peripheral vision are compromised after sundown. The more
your age, the lesser is your viewing capability at night. A 50-year-old driver may need twice as
much light to see as well as a 30-year old. Fatigue is another major contributor towards danger
when driving at night. Weariness increases reaction time and lowers concentration levels.

Alcohol plays a leading role in fatal traffic crashes, causing about half of all motor vehicle-
related deaths. That makes weekend nights more dangerous. More fatal crashes take place on
weekends than at any time during the week. So please, no matter how clichèd, DO NOT DRINK
AND DRIVE. There are a number of things that one can put into use to minimize the dangers of
driving after dark

 Clean the headlamps, tail-lamps, indicators and windows (inside and out) regularly.
 Have your headlights properly aligned. An ill-aligned light beam will blind other drivers
and reduce your ability to see the road.
 Alcohol severely impairs your driving ability. It also acts as a depressant. A single drink
can induce fatigue.
 Avoid smoking when you drive. Nicotine and carbon monoxide hinder night vision.
 Being seen is as important as seeing, so switch on your headlamps even if you don’t need
them. They will help other drivers see your vehicle clearly.
 Do switch to the main beam whenever in doubt about something on the road.
 Increase your ‘trailing’ distance when following a vehicle since it is difficult to judge a
vehicle’ s speed and distance at night.
 When following a vehicle, make sure that you do not use high beam as it can blind the
driver you’re following.
 If the oncoming traffic does not lower its beam then to avoid the glare, watch the left
edge of the road and use it as a steering guide.
 Stop regularly and treat yourself to light snacks and energy drinks to maintain
concentration levels. Also do a few stretching exercises to flex your body muscles.
 Twilight is one of the most difficult times to drive because your eyes are constantly
adjusting to the changing and dying intensity of light which ultimately results in
darkness. Practice utmost caution while driving during this period.

Driving in the rain

Losing control of your car in the wet is a frightening situation that may land you in a soup. Drive
slowly and carefully to prevent skids. Steer and brake with a light touch on curves. If you want to
stop, make sure that you do not brake hard or lock up the wheels, lest you end up skidding. Even
if you do lose control and end up skidding, do not panic as it will only add to the trouble. Stay
calm, ease your foot off the accelerator pedal and steer the car carefully in the direction you want
the front of the car to go. If your car is equipped with ABS then modulate the brakes as you steer
the car.

Aquaplaning is another severe predicament that occurs when the water under your tires cannot
drain through the tires’ grooves fast enough. The water pressure causes the car to slide on a thin
layer of water between the tires and the road surface. At this point, your car is completely out of
contact with the road, and you are in danger of skidding or drifting out of your lane, or even off
the road because the car will not steer, brake or accelerate. To avoid getting yourself in such a
situation, keep your tires properly inflated, maintain enough tread depth on your tires and replace
them when necessary.

Slow down when on wet roads, and stay away from puddles. Try to drive in the tire tracks left by
the cars in front of you. Avoid stomping on the brakes or turning suddenly. This could throw
your car into a slide. Ease off the gas pedal until the car slows down and you can feel the road
again. If you need to brake, do it gently with light pumping actions. If your car employs ABS,
use the brakes as you normally do, the ABS will take care of the rest.

How to save fuel

We all would like to save fuel, whether it is for a noble cause like saving the planet, or for a
selfish cause like not burning a hole in the pocket. Here, we at CarWale.com are going to show
you how to maximize your fuel efficiency and minimize your visits to the petrol pump.

One trick that works well at conserving fuel on highways is imagining that the car has defective
wheel bearings. This should limit your cruising speed, which is good for fuel efficiency.
Remember that above 60kph, you’re using up most of your fuel to combat resistance from the
air. Car designers have done their bit to make cars more slippery, but short of making cigar-
shaped cars, there is no solution that will provide a massive improvement. Cruising at 50kph in
top gear will give you the most efficiency, but it may be too slow for your liking. You could
lessen the air resistance by driving behind a large truck on the highway, but always keep a safe
distance from it. As a rule of thumb, you should be two seconds behind the truck at any speed –
an easy way of checking is saying “One one thousand, two one thousand.” If you pass the point
where the truck was when you started saying that before you finished, increase the distance. This
is vital – the truck will not be able to decelerate as quickly as you can, but it may be able to thud
through potholes or rough patches of road that you might need to slow down for.

Another trick that requires a little imagination is the ‘holes in the exhaust’ trick. This will work
well for city driving. All you have to do is imagine that your exhaust has holes in it, and your
city, strict noise regulations. You can’t drive too slow for fear of getting spotted and pulled over,
and you can’t drive fast because high revs means more noise and you’ll definitely be spotted and
pulled over. This is no tachometer-watching trickery, just plain imagination helping you get
more practical.
Be smooth in your driving – don’t launch your car like racing drivers launch theirs at the start of
a race. Don’t try to beat the amber light, you know you’re going to catch up with traffic down the
road anyway. Don’t speed in the city for the same reason – it’s unsafe, and you’ll have to brake
harder when you do have to stop or slow down, which will use up more fuel. To cut a long story
short, here are some more tips to help you save fuel in point form:

 Do not ride the clutch. Depress it only to change gears, or when at a standstill.
 If you know you’re going to be stationary for an appreciable amount of time at a stoplight,
switch the engine off. The amount of energy it takes to start the engine up is roughly three
seconds’ worth of idling time, so anything more than that is a waste of fuel.
 Drive in a gear that corresponds to the speed you’re at. This means that you shouldn’t be
revving the bolts off the engine, or crawling along in top gear. Drive in the gear that your engine
feels the most comfortable at, at that speed.
 Get your vehicle serviced regularly, so that any glitches get sorted out while they’re still small,
and haven’t affected fuel consumption for an extended period of time.
 Regular engine checkups are a must – a poorly tuned engine can consume up to 50% more fuel
than an engine in good condition.
 Driving at 90 kilometers an hour rather than 100 can reduce fuel consumption by 10%
 Under-inflated tires can increase fuel consumption by 5%. Check your air pressure once a week.
 A loaded roof rack will increase fuel consumption by as much as 5% in highway driving. Even an
empty roof rack can increase consumption by 1%. If the carrier is detachable, remove it when
not in use.
 Anticipating stops and avoiding abrupt stops will decrease fuel consumption and increase the
life of your brakes and tires.
 Avoid unnecessary steering wheel movement since each sideward movement of the tire causes
your total driving distance to increase by a small fraction. The less the distance you drive, the
less the fuel you’ll consume. Don’t straightline corners, however – safety always comes first.
 Accelerate slowly on gravel or slippery roads, maintain a steady speed whenever possible and
avoid unnecessary braking.
 Don’t rev the engine just before you turn it off – it’ll cost you extra fuel, and can be harmful
especially in the case of turbocharged motors.
 Take advantage of rolling resistance rather than heavy braking to help slow you down. This
technique is one of the best for saving fuel – simply increase your braking distance.
 Avoid using the air-con at lower speeds, but roll the windows up and turn it on when cruising at
high speeds.
 Changing the spark plugs regularly can keep your engine’s efficiency at its optimum.

Car care tips

Keeping your car running in top shape isn’t rocket science. Here’s what you should pay attention
to:
Air conditioning

As air conditioning becomes more common in India, you have yet another fluid level to check.
You should run your air conditioning at least once a week, and not just when the weather is hot,
to help maintain it.

Vehicle manufacturers recommend servicing air-conditioning systems every two years. A fully
functional system brings you several major benefits:

 Ensures that correct temperatures are being reached.

 Reduces pollen and pollution entering your car.
 Saves you money.
 Reduces the amount of chloroflurocarbons (CFCs) in the atmosphere.
 Increases the life of your vehicle's air conditioning system.
 A useful tip in winter is to run the air conditioning to prevent your windscreen misting up.

Air filter

Air filters are inexpensive, but when they get dirty they can reduce your fuel economy by an
appreciable amount, and result in a fine for failing a roadside emissions test. Dirty air filters
should be replaced or cleaned as soon as possible. It's an easy job to do but check the handbook
if you are unsure, or alternatively take it to a garage.

Battery

Most batteries have "maintenance free" stamped on them, and you won't ever have to check the
electrolyte level. If your battery is not "maintenance free", you should unscrew the plastic caps
and check the level of the liquid inside (electrolyte). If it is low, top it up with distilled water, not
tap water. You should also check the condition of the terminals. If they are corroded, take off the
wires (negative off first and back on last), clean up with a wire brush and grease with Vaseline or
normal grease to prevent corrosion returning. Remember, batteries contain strong acid and you
must always be cautious when checking and removing them.

Brakes

For your own safety, it is important to check your brake pads or shoes. These components are
made from a heat-resistant friction material, which deteriorates due to being clamped against the
disc or pushed against the drum when the brakes are applied. Also check for fluid leaks caused
by damaged brake hoses or worn seals which could result in brake failure. A telltale sign that
your brake pads are wearing unevenly is that your car will have a tendency to pull to one side
when you brake, and you should get them checked.
Clutch

On a hydraulic clutch, fluid ensures the clutch operates smoothly and helps prevent wear and
tear. If you feel that under acceleration, the engine revs build up faster than the car is actually
accelerating, it may mean your clutch is wearing out. If this happens, get it checked as soon as
possible - worn clutches eventually fail which means you will not be able to change gear. So it
pays to check your clutch fluid level and ensure it is replaced as recommended by the vehicle
handbook. This will help to keep costs down and your car running safely.

The best way to keep the running cost of your car minimal is to maintain your car effectively.
Cars do not look after themselves and parts do wear out due to the extreme conditions and
pressures they operate within. However, if you carry out regular checks on your car, you can
extend the life of certain parts and ensure your car runs reliably. Always ensure you have your
car serviced as recommended in the drivers manual. Failure to do so may lead to excessive wear
on your vehicle, leading to breakdowns and expensive repairs. Failing to have your car serviced
may also mean that parts critical to safety are not checked, which can be dangerous.

Fan belt

If your fan belt starts slipping (you will definitely know when you hear the squeal!), it may not
be tensioned properly. At best this could result in your battery going flat through not being
recharged, and at worst, it could fail to operate your cooling fan, resulting in serious and
expensive damage due to the engine overheating.

Buying A Car: tips for buying a used or new

car
Is the car you're looking to buy suitable for your needs? It may sound like a simple question - but
it is so easy to be distracted by impractical cars when you're looking for a new car. Prioritise
your needs. Is it space or speed? Looks or practicality? There's no point buying a sports coupe if
you want to transport a family of four. Likewise, why buy a big clumsy off-roader if you're a city
dweller? Why consider mileage as top priority if you travel less than 10km a day? Petrol or
diesel? To answer these questions, and make your buying and selling experience as easy as
possible - read on - we've compiled the guide that should provide the answers to all your
questions.

New or Used

 Nothing beats the smell of a new car, the thrill of driving away in a car that is yours, one that's
never been owned by anyone else, but it comes at a price, namely, depreciation. You can
virtually write off 20 per cent of the purchase price the moment you drive away from the dealer
because it is then a used car. Cars depreciate faster in the first two or three years of their life
and the new car buyer has to bear that for the pleasure of being the first owner. By buying used
it is possible to avoid the heaviest depreciation. Cars will still depreciate in the years that follow,
but at a slower rate. New car buyers can choose the engine, transmission, the colour of the
paint and the interior trim, and accessories, but used car buyers have to take what's available.
 New car buyers have the reassuring backup of a new car warranty so they know that if anything
goes wrong they won't have to suffer the consequences of a big repair bill. Anyone buying from
a used car dealer will also have a warranty, but it won't be for the same duration as a new car
warranty. Private buyers don't have a warranty at all.
 By buying used it is possible to get behind the wheel of a better car than you might when buying
new. For the cost of a new Zen or Indica it is possible to purchase a used City or Scorpio.
 There is always the risk of buying a 'lemon' when buying used because there is no way of
knowing how previous owners have treated a car.

Petrol or Diesel

Both petrol and diesel engines have their advantages and disadvantages. The gap is narrowing
day by day so you can choose either on the basis of your needs.

Diesel engines used to be slow and noisy, but the latest diesel engines are as refined as petrol
ones. Now diesel engines are fitted in a number of high-performance models also. Diesel engines
emit less carbon dioxide, so they are better in terms of pollution. However, diesel engines tend to
pump out more particulates, which are associated with smog formation, respiratory and cardio-
vascular illness. Increasingly, diesel engines are being fitted with particulate filters, but this is by
no means widespread at the moment.

Petrol engines are getting cleaner and more economical, too. Direct-injection technology now
features in a number of models. Performance-minded drivers still tend to opt for petrol cars,
though many diesels can accelerate faster than petrol equivalents at speeds from 50-80kph - a
more useful advantage in everyday driving.than a quick 0-60 standing-start time. The prices of
new diesel cars are usually slightly higher than for similarly-specified petrol models, but they
have better resale value.

Diesel is only three quarters the price of petrol and is therefore easy on the pocket. Diesels also
travel further on a litre of fuel compared to their petrol counterparts. However, bear in mind that
a diesel car makes financial sense only if your annual mileage is more than 13,000-15,000km. If
your annual mileage will be less than that, opt blindly for a petrol. If your usage is less than
12,000km annually never think diesel.

Now, if you have made up your mind to buy new or used car, we strongly recommend you read
CarWale.com's new car buying tips and used car buying tips before taking any further decisions.

New car buying tips

Buying new cars is not an easy job but carwale.com is committed to make car deals simplified by
all means. Our goal is to make car buying a pleasant experience. By following our step-by-step
process, you'll be able to buy a car you're happy with and get monthly payments that won't
deplete you bank account.
Many people are intimidated by the abundance of choices and the prospect of having to deal with
a salesman but if you do your homework and you prepare yourself by knowing exactly what you
want and exactly what you want to spend, it's as easy as walking into a dealership and letting
them know what you're there for. Not being intimidated often intimidates them. Using online
quote systems are an easy way to know what's out there and how much you should be paying.
Sites like Automotive.com, Autoweb.com and Autobytel.com use an easy form to let you pick
out the car and options you want and to give you a good price to use for comparison. If you
know you specfically want a Ford or really want to price Fords, Ford Direct.com is an excellent
resource for free Ford quotes. You can also buy cars through these sites. Our guide to buying
your new car will walk you through all the information you will need to know what you're
looking for and how to get it.

When buying a new, recalls and defects are always a concern. What is a defect? Why did they do
a recall? Where can I report a possible defect or need for a recall? These are all very important
questions and can sometimes be tough to find answers to. In the section on Motor Vehicle
Defects and Recall Campaigns all your questions, and even a few you didn't know you had, are
answered. Understanding a recall or a defect on your car can save you a great deal of money. In
the event of a recall on part of your car, the dealership where you bought it will fix the recalled
part for free. If you didn't know this, you might be out the money that you paid to get the part
fixed elsewhere. This section is very informative and helpful. You might even want to take a
look at it before you buy a car so you will know what questions to ask the dealership about and
recalls or defects they may have had.

Nothing beats the smell of a new car, the thrill of driving away in a car that is yours, one that's
never been owned by anyone else, but it comes at a price in the form of depreciation. You can
virtually write off 20 per cent of the purchase price the moment you drive away from the dealer
because it's then a used car. Cars depreciate faster in the first two or three years of their life and
the new car buyer has to cop that for the pleasure of being the first owner. By buying used it's
possible to avoid the heaviest depreciation. Cars will still depreciate in their latter years, but at a
lower rate.

 New car buyers can choose the colour of their car, the trim colour, the engine, transmission and
other options and accessories, but used car buyers have to take what's available.
 New car buyers have the reassuring backup of a new car warranty so they know that if anything
goes wrong they won't be up for a big repair bill. Anyone buying from a used care dealer will
also have a warranty, but it won't be for as long as the new car warranty. Private buyers don't
have any warranty.

Negotiating with Dealers

It's a buyers market which means you can bargain with dealers for a better deal, but you need to
be prepared for the battle.

 Do some homework on market values before you go shopping so you know the value of the car
you're buying and the value of your trade-in. That way you'll be better placed to barter with the
dealer.
 Have your finance arranged before you go shopping, but don't tell the dealer. Dealers will often
cut the price of a car believing they'll make money on the finance.
 Don't settle on the first car you inspect. Visit a number of dealers and compare deals before
making a commitment.
 Look for a dealer well stocked with the car you want and he'll be more prepared to deal.
 Shop towards the end of the month when dealers are looking to get their quotas up.

Financing your wheels

Few of us are able to hand over a wad of cash to pay for our car, we all need finance for the
purchase.

 Before you start work out how much you afford to pay, and how much you can afford to repay.
 Don't be tempted to use your credit card to pay for your car, the interest rate on credit cards is
generally very high.
 Shop around to save money.
 Finance through dealers is the most expensive, dealers are on-selling the finance to you and
they are making a profit on the deal, so cut out the middle man and go straight to the source of
the finance.
 Banks offer finance at a cheaper rate than the dealers, but approval can take time.
 Independent finance companies specialising in car finance often have the lowest interest rates,
and some offer fast approvals with an on-line service.

Where to Buy

 Buying from a dealer gives you the security of a warranty. By law dealers have to give you a
warranty which gives you some recourse if something goes wrong with the car later.
 Dealers also have to guarantee ownership of the vehicle, that there is no outstanding finance on
it which might complicate matters later. They also have to guarantee the odometer reading.
 It's possible to buy cars cheaper at auction, but there are risks. There's little chance to check a
car over, there's no chance to drive it, so you take a risk on its condition. The auction
environment is not one for the faint hearted, it's fast moving with lots of little nods, winks and
gestures for those in the know. Spend the time to visit auctions to become familiar with them
before attempting to join in the action. It's a good idea to take along someone with mechanical
knowledge to help you assess the cars before the auction starts.
 Buying privately can be a way of saving money, but it can be risky for the unwary. There is no
comeback with a private purchase, once you've driven away you're on your own. To search for
private party cars on carsguide.com.au click here.

Before you buy a car ask yourself:

 What kind of driving do you do?

 Off road? Around town?
 What features matter to you?
 Air-con? Safety? Power?
 What's your price range?
 Where will you be parking?
 Do you have a garage or only on-street parking?
 What kind of insurance can you afford?

Car Selling Tips : Why You Should Sell Your

Car Yourself
Selling your car yourself is easier than you may think. With today's online resources you can
reach more buyers for less cost compared to a traditional printed classified listing.

Your first step

You are cutting out the middleman and increasing your profit, so I believe you are ready for
putting in some effort! Don't be afraid, you will enjoy selling your car.

Find the current market price for your car

A good place to start is the internet. A little research and you will find the price of vehicles
similar to yours. Visit CarWale CarValue for an estimate of your car’s price. Buyers love to
bargain, so keep a buffer on the minimum price you are expecting, but remember, the buyer may
have checked CarWale CarValue for your car, so keep the price near it to make your offer more
appealing. If you don't want too many responses on your ad, specify clearly “Best Offer”, “Final
Price”, “No Negotiations,” etc.

First Impression is the Last Impression

Looks sell. Clean your car thoroughly and consider taking care of minor maintenance issues.

Some things you can do to improve your car's appearance are:

 Wash, wax and vacuum your car.

 Wipe down the dashboard and other surfaces.
 Gloss up the tires and polish the wheels.
 Clean all glass inside and out, including mirrors.
 Clean out any junk from inside your car and the boot.
 Replace any fused lights or blown fuses.
 Top up all fluids.
 Check for any sounds and noises, and try to eliminate them.

Get all your car’s papers together. “All” means all of them - maintenance bills, service records,
warranty receipts for tires, batteries etc. Well-maintained records will command a premium.
They show that you care for your car.

How do I advertise?
Your best bet is an online ad. Think about it this way: how many newspaper readers are looking
to buy a car? Compare that to the number of people visiting auto websites like this one looking to
buy a car. Your car will stay on the site until it is sold. You get more space to show off your car.

Here are a few tips to help sell your car quickly:

 Upload good photos. You can use your mobile camera to click the pictures. Photograph
your car in daylight – preferably early morning or in the evening.
 Give as many details as possible about your car. This will attract the right buyers and
help you sell fast.
 Specify extra fittings like alloy wheels, leather upholstery, CD-changer, music system,
new tires, available services, warranties, etc.

Get ready to receive the inquiries

Once you have placed your advertisement, be ready with the information you have put in it. If
you can't remember all the figures you have mentioned make a note of them on a piece of paper
and keep it at some place accessible to you. Buyers are making a big decision, so try to answer
every question honestly and openly. You'll save yourself time instead of making unnecessary
appointments. Do the initial screening of the buyer over the phone then fix up an appointment.
Make the appointment for a specific time, rather than allowing a buyer to show up "sometime
after work." It increases the chances of the buyer showing up, and it doesn't waste your time. If
you feel uncomfortable with a buyer coming to your house, arrange to meet in a populated, well-
lit area.

Now the main part – closing the deal

Be patient; you will do well and sell your car.

 Show your car to the interested buyer.

 Don't let the buyer take your car for a test drive without you.
 Check the buyer’s driving license and then let him drive, but you navigate.
 Ask for a deposit if buyer wants you to reserve the car, and specify the time after which
his deposit will lapse.
 Negotiate the price, don't allow too much bargaining and don't show desperation to sell.
Give it a little attention and leave it for the buyer to decide.

Sales Formalities

Congratulations. You have sold your vehicle but some paperwork will need to be done. Accept
the payment either in cash or a demand draft. In case of cheque payments, don't transfer the
documents till the time the cheque is realized. If the buyer is arranging for a loan, take help of
finance company's DSA, who will guide you through all the paperwork. Any car dealer or RTO
office in your area will help you with RTO transfers.
Safety Tips
Breakdowns

Preventive maintenance reduces the chances of a breakdown. However,

the possibility cannot be overruled. It is better to be prepared.

Carry an advance-warning triangle. It can be used to warn other road users if the car is
obstructing the road. Place the triangle at a distance of fifty meters behind the vehicle. In case
you don't possess a warning triangle hang a piece of red cloth on the car.

Road Accidents

1. Stop your vehicle in the safest place - if possible, off the road.
2. In case someone is injured, administer first aid. Call local help and rush the injured to the
nearest hospital. The effort to save the life of an accident victim should be the top priority.
3. Inform the police (no.100) as quickly as possible. It is important to give accurate details.
4. Note down the registration numbers of the other vehicles involved.
5. Inform the insurance company as per the rules.

Mechanical Failures

If the pedal brake suddenly gives way

1. Pump the brake pedal fast and strongly many times to build pressure
2. If there is an engine brake shift to a low gear.
3. Use the handbrake (or e-brake) if the vehicle does not come under control.
4. Activate the hazard lights and look out for a safe place to stop.
5. In case of a puncture or blowout hold on to the steering wheel firmly. Draw the vehicle towards
the corner of the road.
6. Accelerator wire breakage may create sudden loss of acceleration. Do not brake suddenly. Draw
the vehicle off the road
7. If the hood of your vehicle suddenly flies up, slow down and stop. Draw the vehicle to the
roadside.
8. If you sense fire, switch off the ignition and draw the vehicle towards the side of the road.
Switch on the hazard lights. Try to put out the fire by throwing sand onto it. If the fire grows,
stay away from it – it could lead to an explosion. Try to find help as quickly as possible and warn
others.
Used car buying tips
Buying a used car is more complicated than buying a new one. There are concerns about what
may be breaking or already been fixed. Another concern with buying a used car is the warranty.
Over half of the used cars today are being sold "as is". Buying an "as is" car is very risky – once
you hand over that money and sign your name on the dotted line, that car is your problem no
matter what happens.

Not all aspects of buying a used car are bad. Used cars can be the smartest way to go sometimes.
If you are living on limited means, a used car is a great idea if bought outright. If you are not
going to finance the used car, you will only have to get liability insurance which is much cheaper
than full coverage which is required when financing any car. Another bonus is that a used car
won't have fees attached to the price like a new car would. When buying a new car, the
dealership adds fees like cleaning and shipping to the price. A used car, even when bought from
a lot, will not have most of these fees. If you are in the market to buy a used car and need some
extra cash, try E-LOAN for a car loan. By following the following simple steps, you can cut the
risk of buying a car that will fall apart and become a black hole for your money.

Buying a used car obviously carries a certain degree of risk. After all, with a new car you get
peace of mind – no one has driven the vehicle carelessly or failed to have it maintained on a
regular basis. If something does go wrong, the car is under warranty — at least for a period of
time. These safeties are not usually included in the purchase of a used car. But used-car buying
need not be as fraught with anxiety and terror as some may think. Knowing where and how to
buy a used car as well as which cars to buy can alleviate most of the tension consumers feel
about this process. If you are willing to spend time doing thorough research, you will soon be
driving the car of your dreams, secure in the knowledge that you paid a fair price for your set of
wheels.

Choosing a Used Car

How much could you afford?

Before you begin your search for a good deal on a used car, spend time considering many of the
same factors that would apply to a new car purchase: how you will use the vehicle; how long you
plan to keep it and your budget – including insurance, operation, maintenance and repair costs.

What Car should you buy?

Decide what car suits your lifestyle and image the best. Since you will probably own and use the
same car for many more years, you need to anticipate future needs and lifestyle changes. Today
you could easily consider buying a mid-sized car as these cars are available at great bargains.
Narrowing down your dream list is a bit more difficult for used cars than new cars because there
are so many more used vehicles. Talk to friends or acquaintances who drive cars that appeal to
you; word of mouth is often one of the best ways to gather information about reliability or quirks
of certain models.
How Old is 'old'?

If budget is top priority then you should pick a smaller, newer car rather than a large, older car. A
larger car will have higher running costs - fuel, maintenance, tyres and spares will need more
money. Your best bet is to look for something almost new – a car two years old or younger. You
could get a good deal because there are many car owners who don't want to be seen in
'yesterday's model' - they want to be seen driving only the latest cars. Buying a middle-aged car
(3-5 years old) that has been treated well by its owner could be a great buy. Cars that have
logged 14,000-18,000km a year are prime buys. Cars flogged badly by chauffeurs or heavily
used ones are trouble.

Analog odometer readings can be rolled back, or "clocked." This fraud is practiced by thousands
of fly-by-night, independent used-car sellers nationwide. The effect is obvious: a high-mileage
car is turned into a low-mileage car to increase the car's value. A car with low mileage, but with
a lot of wear on the driver's seat or the brake and accelerator may indicate tampering with the
odometer.

How Much Should You Spend?

It's easy to overspend your budget on a new car or truck. Here's how to avoid getting in over
your head.

Do some Research

You know how much you want to spend on a vehicle, but do you know how realistic that "deal"
really is? Get the valuation of the car done from a bank's valuator or just submit the car's details
on CarWale.com and we shall provide you with the approximate value of the vehicle. Give
yourself enough time to examine the car thoroughly. Do not purchase it at night, in the rain, or if
you are too cold, too wet or too busy to study your choice. Always take the car for a test drive.
Always have a mechanic check the car, particularly the underside.

Take a Test-Drive

The test-drive is, of course, an essential part of the process. Test-drive the car on different types
of roads. Make sure the engine starts right away, and there are no unusual noises or vibrations.
Look out for a shaky steering, it could mean front-end trouble. Test the brakes for signs of
pulling. A car with low mileage should not have a brake pedal that looks worn out. If the car has
a manual transmission, push the gearshift through various gears to see how it performs. If the car
has steering without power assistance, city driving and parallel parking can be difficult, so try
and test drive the car under many conditions.

Examine the Exterior

Look for signs of an accident, such as dents or new paint or chrome. Make sure the hood shuts
properly. Check the body for rust or fill. Look under the car. Check for cracks in the frame,
rusting or welding. Check the condition of the muffler, tailpipe and exhaust components. Look
for signs of fluids leaking from the car, including oil, brake or transmission fluid. Push down the
corners of the car to check the shock absorbers. If the car bounces up and down several times, the
shocks are worn. Open the trunk. Check for a jack and the condition of the spare tire. Check for
rust under the mats. Look at the tires closely for any signs of uneven wear.

Examine the Interior

Lift the hood and check the condition of the belts and hoses. Check the battery to see if it is
cracked. Pull out the dipstick to see the oil level, and whether it's dirty. Check the parts and
accessories, such as lights, horn, mirrors, seatbelts, radio, heater and windows. Make sure they
all work. Have a friend check the outside lights for you. Make sure doors open and close easily,
and that handles and locks work well. Check the dimmer switch, headlights and windshield
washer. You should also check the odometer. It is against the law to change the odometer
reading, and if you think someone has tampered with it, avoid the car.

Check the liens

When buying a used car, consumers should protect themselves by ensuring there are no
outstanding liens against the car (for example: an unpaid loan). If there is still an outstanding
lien, the car could be repossessed - even if you paid full price to the seller.

A Stolen Car

Always check the serial number on the Vehicle Registration card. Make sure it corresponds to
the number on the car. Make sure the person who is selling the car actually owns it, and is not
trying to sell a leased vehicle.

Making an Offer

If you decide to buy, you can make an offer either verbally or in writing. If there are conditions
to your offer, write them down. For example, if you want your mechanic to inspect the car before
the sale is final (and you have not already had the car examined), make the mechanic's approval a
condition of the sale. If you need to borrow money to make the purchase, make your offer
subject to getting credit at a reasonable rate. The seller may ask for a deposit. Make sure you
state in your offer that the deposit will be refunded if the mechanic does not approve the car, or if
you do not get the financing. As part of the offer, suggest the seller grant a 30-day warranty. The
warranty should say that the seller will take the car back should any major problems arise with
the engine or other parts of the car. This type of warranty will not cover accidents while the car is
in your possession.

Avoiding Scams

As most of us know, used-car buying is a business that has traditionally created a bad name for
itself. But while consumers and ethical auto dealers have benefited greatly from the internet, so
too have crooked buyers and sellers. As such, you need to be aware of potential scams. Here are
some of the most common ones directed toward buyers and sellers online:

Certified Check Scams - This scam is often perpetrated on sellers of used

cars over the internet through classified ads and auctions. A buyer indicates that he wants to buy
the car and pay with a cashier's check. At the last minute, the buyer creates a reason why he
needs to write the check for more money and have the seller wire him the difference. The check
turns out to be a fake, but it is often discovered long after the seller has wired the money. In
addition, the seller is responsible for covering the money for the fake check. To avoid check
scams, call the issuing bank before you accept the check and wait for the check to clear before
you transfer the car into the buyer's name.

The best way to avoid most scams is to make sure you never transfer ownership of your vehicle
until you have the cash in your hand. That means, you either get cash from the buyer or wait for
the cashier's check to clear. Avoid buyers who will never meet you or never wish you to see the
vehicle in person (overseas). Avoid taking personal checks and allowing buyers to pay the car off
over time. If buying, always verify the seller actually has/owns the item for sale and meet them
face-to-face to view the vehicle. If you follow these few precautions, your buying and selling
experience should go smoothly.

Dealer Tricks

If you are buying car from a dealer you must consider the dealer’s tricks. Most people dread
going to buy a new car for one simple reason: the salesmen. I'm not saying all salesmen are out
to get you, but we've seen our fair share of deceptive salesmen who use tricks or play on words
to get that sale and make that commission. Nowadays, most car dealerships are trying to become
"customer friendly". To help you find a good dealership and weed through the bad, we've
compiled a list of dealer tricks and how to avoid them. If you ever find yourself in any of these
situations, don't be afraid to leave the dealership. You can also let the salesperson know that you
are leaving because of their trick and that you will not be back to that dealership to buy your new
car. Word of mouth is one of the strongest forms of advertising and dealerships know this. Once
you weed out the dealerships with poor customer service and poor sales tactics and find one you
like and trust, you will be a loyal customer to that dealership and maybe even that particular
salesman.

Make sure you browse through our list to familiarize yourself with these tricks before you go to a
dealership. Don't get caught unaware. Although we've only listed the tricks we've seen first hand,
there are many more tricks that dealerships/salesman will try to play on unsuspecting customers.
If you have encountered any new ones we have not listed and would like to share them with
others and expose all the tricks we can, please email them to us at [email protected].

Closing the Deal

When you reach an agreement on the purchase price of a used car, you may be tempted to think
you're home free. In fact, there are several crucial steps that need to be done correctly, or all your
hard work up to this point could be for naught.

Change in Ownership

Always ask the seller for the car’s registration papers. These documents are required to transfer
ownership of the vehicle. The certificate also provides the purchaser a chance to confirm vehicle
ownership.

In Nutshell

 Examine the car's repair record, maintenance costs, safety and mileage ratings in consumer
magazines or online.
 Make sure all oral promises are written into the Buyer's Guide.
 You have the right to see a copy of the dealer's warranty before you make your purchase.
 Warranties are included in the price of the product; service contracts cost extra and are sold
separately.
 Ask for the car's maintenance record from the owner, dealer, or repair shop.
 Test drive the car on hills, highways, and in stop-and-go traffic.
 Have the car inspected by a mechanic you hire.
 Find out as much as you can about the dealer from local consumer protection officials.
 If you buy a car "as is," you'll have to pay for anything that goes wrong after the sale.
 The Used Car rule generally doesn't apply to private sales.

Dealer Tricks and Tactics

Knowledge is power, they say, and if you arm yourself with the knowledge of a dealer's methods
to sell cars, you'll be better equipped to avoid buying the wrong car and get yourself a better deal.
Read on.

"I am new to this job"

The salesperson may tell you that he is new on the job, just out of training and on probation, and
he needs to make a few sales to retain his job. To further this he will hand you business cards
that are hand-written, not printed because he needs to make sales before he can get his own
personalized business cards. By doing of this, the salesperson hopes to make you feel that they
are going through this with you as a learning experience and that they are just as new to this as
you are. They may even try to make you the teacher so that you feel more in control.
What you should do

There are two ways to avoid this scam, the first of which is identifying it. Tell the salesman that
you need to see someone who knows about everything you will need. This will force him to start
acting as though he know what he is doing to keep you as his customer. The second is to play
along with it and be in charge of the situation. Ask for everything you want and when he says
that he doesn't think his sales manager will go for any of that, tell him you need to see his sales
manager because his lack of training and experience is not helping you buy your car. Either one
of these solutions will make the salesman feel as though his trick isn't working and he'll either
shape up or you can deal directly with the sales manager.

Controlling the conversation

Dealers often try to "control the conversation" when making a deal. They have many ways to try
to do this but the most popular is asking too many questions and answering all of your questions
with questions. They will need to ask several questions in order to determine what you're looking
for but once you get past those questions, the rest are designed to keep them in the drivers seat
and to not give you a chance to stop and think about what's going on. It's hard to think about
what's going on when someone is throwing a million questions at you.

What you should do

Don't be afraid to ask them for a minute to think or to step outside. You are the one in control,
not them. Make sure they understand that. If a salesman is answering all of your questions with
questions, repeat your question. Don't answer his question without having yours answered first.
Let him know that you would like your question answered by telling him, "You didn't answer my
question" or "You shouldn't answer a question with a question." They don't like to lose control of
the conversation, but stay calm and firm and turn the conversation around. You may have to try a
couple of times if they seem unwilling to give up that control but sooner or later they will have to
concede. If they are stubborn and refuse, ask for a different salesperson or the sales manager. If
they will not get one someone else to attend to you, leave or go out in the lot and find a different
salesperson. If they refuse to make the deal on your terms, there are ten other salesman walking
around the dealership waiting for a potential customer. Go out and grab one.

The most famous question

How many times have you heard a salesman ask, "What do I have to do to get you into this car
today?" This is their famous question. All salesmen ask it and for one simple reason, you feel
obliged to answer which gives them more leverage to work with. When you answer this
question, suddenly they have something else to bargain with. If you tell them it's the payments,
they'll tell you they can work on those for you. If you tell them it's the color, they'll tell you they
can find something you’ll like.

What you should do

You can avoid the question by either telling them that there is nothing that could get you into this
car today (unless it was free) or simply tell them that the price is too high. This answer gives you
some leverage because now they will try to work with you on the most important aspect: the
price of the car.

Take it or leave it

A salesman will act as if he has cut every possible corner for you and give you the "this is it"
phrase, otherwise known as "take it or leave it." When a salesman does this, it is to scare you into
thinking this is the best you are going to get anywhere – so you better buy it now.

What you should do

When a salesman says this, your best option is to leave it, and leave. As you are leaving the
salesman will either try to stop you and give you a better deal or let you go if that is in fact his
best offer. If that was his best offer, it will still be there if you shop around and return.

I'm good. I'm helping you!

This trick is played as there is a good salesman and a bad salesman. Your salesman will act as
the good salesman who is supposed to be on your side. He will try to act as though he is willing
to help you with anything you need to get into your new car. The part of the bad salesman will be
played by another salesman or a sales manager. The good salesman will try to take all of your
offers while the bad salesman will shoot down all of them. This is played in order to wear down
the customer until they are willing to agree to other terms just to get out of there.

What you should do

When going through the negotiations, do it one issue at a time. This in turn will wear them down
and they will be less likely to shoot down every offer you make.

How to handle dealer?

 Let the salesperson know that you are in the market and looking at different vehicles. A quality
salesperson will be able to explain the benefits of his car over the competition.
 Take a test drive, but don't talk price. Dealers love to negotiate with you right after the test
drive, when you are at an emotional high.
 Don't be pressured into making any commitment regardless of what the dealer tells you. If you
rush into a deal, you may end up regretting the decision.
 Beware of phrases like : "The best price is the price you’re willing to pay", " Let me go check with
my manager", "If I give you a good price, are you prepared to do business today?" etc. The
purpose of these questions is to get a commitment from you without the dealer committing
anything to you. If you say yes to any of these questions you are simply narrowing the range of
negotiations and the dealer will continue to negotiate until you start saying "NO".
Car Maintenance Tips
“Maintain your car well,” we are told often. Aren’t you maintaining your car well by adhering to
service intervals, giving it regular washes and keeping it dust-free? There’s quite a bit more you
can do to keep your car as good as new. We’ve put down a few tips for you: 

 Regular oil changes are the most important aspect of keeping your engine in good
shape.
 Wash your car regularly, wax it on your weekly off to keep the car shining and free from
corrosion.
 Take care of any minor niggles as soon as you can, so that they don’t balloon into
serious problems and maybe the need for expensive repairs.
 Use only original parts. Spurious spares may be cheaper, but how much is your peace of
mind worth?

How to check the engine oil

Park your car on level ground and turn the ignition off. Wait a while so that the engine oil drains
into the oil pan. Remove the engine oil dipstick. If you don't know where the dipstick is, go
through your owner's manual - it will show you where to find it. The dipstick usually has a bright
handle saying "engine oil". Wipe it with a clean rag or tissue. Then put it back all the way down
into its place.

Now, pull the dipstick again and check the oil level. It should be at the "FULL" mark. It isn’t a
big problem if it's a bit lower than the ‘Full’ mark, but top it up anyway. If the oil is black and
opaque, it's definitely time to change it. If it's slightly brown, it'll do. If it's dark-brown, but still
transparent, it's admissible but it will need to be changed soon; the sooner the better.

If the oil is white (the colour of coffee with milk,) it means that the engine coolant is mixing with
the engine oil. This indicates an internal engine problem, for example, a blown head gasket -
have your car checked at authorized service center.

How to top up the engine oil:

It is better to add the same type and brand of engine oil that is already being used. Add a little at
a time, wait a while to let the oil drain and then check the oil level again with the dipstick. If it
still isn’t full, add some more - but don't go over the mark. Don't forget to put the dipstick back
and close the oil filler cap when you are finished topping the oil up.

How to check automatic transmission fluid.

Park your car on level ground and start the engine. Set transmission lever to the "P" (Park)
position, and let the engine idle (on some cars this procedure may be different, please check the
owners' manual for details). Pull the transmission dipstick. Check your owner’s manual to find
where transmission dipstick is placed in your car if you don’t already know where it is. Wipe it
with a lint-free clean rag or tissue. Then insert it back carefully all the way down into its place.

Pull again and check the fluid level. If the engine is cold, it should be above the "COLD" mark.
If the engine is hot, the level should be at the upper end of the "HOT" mark. If it's just a little bit
lower you don’t need to worry. If you do, go ahead and top it up. Check the fluid condition also:
if it's black and has a burnt smell, your transmission isn’t going to last. Normally it should be
clean and transparent, as in the image. New transmission fluid is red in colour. Over time it turns
brownish. If it is brown, check your owner's manual, it may be time to change it. Some
manufacturers require transmission fluid changed at 60,000km, others specify that you never
have to change it - check your car’s manual for information pertaining to your car.

How to top up the transmission fluid

It's very important to use only the transmission fluid specified in your owner’s manual. For
example, some Chrysler transmissions need a specific fluid and regular fluid like Dexron II may
even destroy the transmission. Add a small amount of the fluid through the dipstick pipe and do
not overfill it. Wait for a few minutes - let the fluid flow down. Start the engine. Check the level
again.

Engine coolant

Low coolant level will cause the engine to overheat, which may cause serious damage to the
engine.

How to check the engine coolant level:

The coolant level should be between the "LOW" and "FULL" marks in the coolant overflow
tank. If it is lower, top it up. If there is no coolant in overflow tank or you have to top it up quite
often, have your car inspected, there is probably a coolant leak.

Caution: never open the radiator or coolant overflow tank when the engine is hot! The fluid is
under pressure when the engine is hot, and might spurt out and burn you. Turn off the engine,
and when engine is cool enough (a few minutes after the engine has been turned off,) simply add
a coolant into the overflow tank.

Tires

Check tyre pressure at least once a month. If you don't have a tyre pressure gauge please invest
in one, it is worth every penny. You can find the recommended tire pressures for your car in the
owner's manual or on the tire pressure placard. Some cars have it on the inside of the doors as
well. The maximum pressure listed on tires is NOT the ideal pressure! Refer to the owner's
manual for the ideal pressures.
Rotate tyres at every other oil change - it will ensure that all tyres wear equally. If you feel
vibrations at cruising speed, have your wheels balanced. There is a safe limit for tread wear. If
the tire is worn below this limit it is a safety hazard. Refer to the result of mechanical inspection.
Uneven tire wear indicates alignment problem or problems with your suspension.

Improper alignment causes increased tire and suspension component wear and poor handling. In
worst case scenarios, improper alignment may throw your car into a skid, especially on a wet
road. If a car pulls to one side, wanders or feels unstable on the road, have the alignment
checked. Alignment that has been done properly will make your car's ride a lot more enjoyable.

CV joint boots

Most modern vehicles are Front Wheel Drive, and they all have CV joints (Constant Velocity
joints) used to transfer the engine’s torque to the front wheels. The CV joint is greased on the
inside and sealed by a rubber boot that unfortunately, may break. If the CV joint boot breaks, the
grease escapes, dirt and water enters and the whole axle unit may become inoperative in a short
while. There is a CV joint located on the internal side of each of the front wheels. You can check
CV joint boots visually by looking inside the front wheel arch from the front of the car with the
wheel turned as far as it will go in that direction. The boot should be dry. If it is broken you will
see grease all over the area. If the boot is broken, it needs to be replaced. If not replaced in time,
the whole axle shaft will need to be replaced which will cost you more than replacing just the
boot.

A stitch in time…

As soon as you feel there is something wrong with your car, for example, any irregular noise,
vibration, shimmer, or you note some leak or a warning light comes on while driving or anything
irregular occurs, have your car inspected at a dealer or a garage as soon as you can - it might be
unsafe to drive. It is better to check for a small problem before it develops into something
serious.

Regular mechanical inspection

For your safety, have your car inspected at least once a year by a mechanic. Not a simple visual
inspection by a fast-lube place, but a mechanic that can lift your car and check major
components such as brakes, suspension, etc., while having your tires rotated, for example. This is
because many components (e.g ball joints), can not be inspected visually with the car on the
ground. 

Treat your car well and it will treat you well – you’ll have a good-looking car that will be a
pleasure to drive and when the time comes to move on, will return a good price as well. The little
things matter, so pay careful attention to them and you’ll end up with a much better ownership
experience.

Driving in the rain

Taking care of your new battery pack

Normally, a new battery pack comes in a very low charge condition and must be fully charged
before use. Refer to the user manual of your portable electronic equipment for charging
instructions.

A new battery pack needs to be fully charged and fully discharged or "cycled" as much as five
times to condition them into performing at full capacity.

Your equipment may report a fully charge condition in as short as 10 to 15 minutes when the
new battery pack is being charged for the first time. This is a normal phenomenon especially for
Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) and Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) chemistries. When this happens,
remove the battery pack and let it cool down for about fifteen minutes then repeat the charging
procedure.

"Conditioning" (fully discharging and then fully charging) is necessary so as to maintain the
optimum performance of a battery pack, and is recommended at least once a month particularly
for Ni-Cad and Ni-MH batteries. Failure to do so could result in reduced charge capacity and can
significantly shorten the battery pack’s useful life. Lithium Ion batteries do not require
conditioning.

It is normal for a battery pack to get warm when charging and during use. However, if the battery
ack gets excessive hot, there may be a problem with the portable electronic equipment’s charging
circuit and should therefore be checked by a qualified technician.

Rechargeable batteries undergo self-discharging when left unused for long periods of time. This
is normal particularly in the case of Ni-MH and Li-Ion chemistries. For best results, always store
a battery pack fully charged. It should be removed from the equipment and kept in a cool, dry
and clean place.

The amount of runtime a battery pack produces depends on the power requirements of
components in your electronic equipment. This could be the hard drive setting, screen intensity
and back-lighting on notebook computers, the liquid crystal display (LCD) screen and floodlight
feature in a video camcorder, or the tri-mode communications network of a cellular phone.
Always refer to your equipment’s user manual for power management settings.

Driving in the rain

Taking care of your new battery pack

Normally, a new battery pack comes in a very low charge condition and must be fully charged
before use. Refer to the user manual of your portable electronic equipment for charging
instructions.
A new battery pack needs to be fully charged and fully discharged or "cycled" as much as five
times to condition them into performing at full capacity.

Your equipment may report a fully charge condition in as short as 10 to 15 minutes when the
new battery pack is being charged for the first time. This is a normal phenomenon especially for
Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad) and Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH) chemistries. When this happens,
remove the battery pack and let it cool down for about fifteen minutes then repeat the charging
procedure.

"Conditioning" (fully discharging and then fully charging) is necessary so as to maintain the
optimum performance of a battery pack, and is recommended at least once a month particularly
for Ni-Cad and Ni-MH batteries. Failure to do so could result in reduced charge capacity and can
significantly shorten the battery pack’s useful life. Lithium Ion batteries do not require
conditioning.

It is normal for a battery pack to get warm when charging and during use. However, if the battery
ack gets excessive hot, there may be a problem with the portable electronic equipment’s charging
circuit and should therefore be checked by a qualified technician.

Rechargeable batteries undergo self-discharging when left unused for long periods of time. This
is normal particularly in the case of Ni-MH and Li-Ion chemistries. For best results, always store
a battery pack fully charged. It should be removed from the equipment and kept in a cool, dry
and clean place.

The amount of runtime a battery pack produces depends on the power requirements of
components in your electronic equipment. This could be the hard drive setting, screen intensity
and back-lighting on notebook computers, the liquid crystal display (LCD) screen and floodlight
feature in a video camcorder, or the tri-mode communications network of a cellular phone.
Always refer to your equipment’s user manual for power management settings.

Battery Dont'ts

Rechargeable batteries contain a considerable amount of energy.

 DO NOT leave on charge for extended periods.

 DO NOT short circuit terminals.
 DO NOT drop or mutilate.
 DO NOT disassemble.
 DO NOT place in fire or near sources of extreme heat.
 DO NOT expose to moisture or rain.

Battery Packs Explained

In simplest terms, a rechargeable battery pack is a collection of one or more rechargeable cells ,
assembled together to provide power, measured in watts per hour (Whr), to a portable electronic
device such as a camcorder or notebook computer.
The most common forms of rechargeable cells are the Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad), Nickel Metal
Hydride (Ni-MH) and recently, the Lithium-ion (Li-Ion) chemistries. Each of these rechargeable
technologies provides their own distinct advantages and disadvantages.

Different Types of Rechargeable Batteries

Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cad)

Ni-Cad battery is the oldest of the rechargeable chemistries used in today's portable electronic
industry. Its low cost and high discharge rate capability make it suitable for low cost electronic
applications like g ames and toys as well as for high discharge applications such as cordless
power tools. Its low energy density (power-to-weight ratio) makes it undesirable for use in
equipment such as notebooks and cellular phones. Ni-Cad has a chemistry-related problem
associated with it called Memory Effect, which limits the discharge capacity of the cell if not
completely discharged during each use.

Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH)

Ni-MH is most commonly used in the cellular phone battery, camcorder battery, laptop battery
and notebook battery. A relative of the Ni-Cad chemistry, it has improved performance in respect
to the memory effect problem, increased capacity, and therefore a higher energy density than Ni-
Cad. Operation of this chemistry at elevated temperatures decreases its cycle life or the number
of times a cell can be charged and discharged.

Lithium-ion (Li-Ion)

The newest of the rechargeable chemistries, Li-Ion has been in mass production since 1995. With
three times the voltage per cell as Nickel-based chemistries (3.6 V vs. 1.2 V), Li-Ion has a higher
energy density and is therefore ideal for lightweight applications. It is currently the chemistry of
choice for laptop battery, notebook battery, camcorder battery and cellular phone battery
applications. Li-Ion battery has had a history of early production overheating related problems
and is designed in a battery pack with a Pack Control Circuit (PCC) to protect the cells from
abusive conditions such as current and voltage overcharging, high temperature, and over-
discharge. The relatively high cost of Li-Ion cells combined with the need for circuitry makes the
cost of Li-Ion battery packs higher than for other chemistries.

Memory Effect

Ni-Cad batteries remember how much charge was released on previous discharges. It has a
tendency to release the same amount of energy with every charge/discharge cycle. If a Ni-Cad
battery is always partially discharged before recharging, the usable capacity of the battery will be
reduced. The Ni-MH battery is also affected by memory effect but to a lesser degree. A periodic
discharge to one volt per cell or " exercise" is essential for Ni-Cad cells to prevent the building-
up of memory. "Conditioning" (fully discharging and then fully charging) a battery pack also
helps minimizing memory effect. Batteries can be fully discharged by disconnecting the
equipment from the AC power supply and letting the equipment run on battery power until it
ceases to function. Conditioning the battery once a month will keep it performing at its optimum
level for a long time.

The Pack Assembly

The cells are assembled into a battery pack configuration to provide a required amount of voltage
(V) and capacity (Amperes per hour - Ah) needed to operate the equipment. The cells are
connected using metal strips called tabs. The number of cells needed and the size of these cells
determine the size and shape of the pack. A wire lead or connector is then attached to the
positive and negative terminals of the pack for connection to the electronic device. The pack can
then be wrapped in heat-shrink plastic or encased in a hard plastic enclosure.

Smart Batter and Fuel Gauging

Increasingly, portable electronic equipment is becoming more complicated and power hungry.
Also, users demand to know how much battery life is remaining during the use of the equipment.
This has created a need for the inclusion of complex circuitry into the design and manufacture of
today's battery packs (Fuel gauging is very common in the latest laptop battery, notebook battery
and camcorder battery). Although it has caused an increase in the price of these battery packs, it
has also improved the efficiency, prolonged the life and increased their user friendliness.

Reading the battery specifications

There are two important figures to consider in reading and understanding a battery pack’s
specifications. First is the voltage of the battery pack in terms of Volt or V. Second is the
capacity rating in terms of Ampere-hours (Ah) or milliamp-hours (mAh: 1mAh=0.001Ah). The
voltage of the new battery pack should always match the voltage of the original battery. The
higher the Ah or mAh capacity rating of the battery pack means the longer runtime and does not
mean incompatibilities. Most IBI battery packs have higher Ah or mAh readings than the
original, yet are manufactured up to original equipment manufacturer (OEM) standards.

In-Flight Charging
More passenger airline companies are providing outlets or receptacles into which passengers can plug
portable electronic equipment such as notebook computers and cellular phones for recharging during
flight. Our industry trade associations like the Battery Association of Japan, European Portable Battery
Association, Passenger Electronic Device Association and Portable Rechargeable Battery Association
have taken into account that the recharging of batteries in portable equipment while on board aircraft is
not recommended. Such practice should be deferred until appropriate technical safety standards are
established and that such standards are fully implemented. Intelligent Batteries Inc. advocates and
favors such position and does not recommend that any battery pack product be recharged through
airline in-the-seat power sources.

Car DrivingTips
Drive to save fuel

Whether you drive occasionally or everyday, you can decrease the amount of fuel you use by
taking the steps described below:

Driving Skills

The driving technique of the person behind the wheel is the single most important factor in
determining the fuel economy of a particular car. A economy-conscious driver can achieve 30 to
50% better economy than most other drivers. You, too, can better your car’s efficiency simply by
following the following instructions:

The Attitude

1. Always think about fuel economy while you drive.

2. Always drive for better fuel economy.
3. Avoid driving when you are angry or upset.
4. Use public transportation whenever possible.

The 30-second Warm Up

 Do not let your engine idle for more than 30 seconds after its initial start. Engines warm up
faster when they are in motion.
 Idling for more than 30 seconds not only wastes fuel but also harms your engine, since the
amount of lubricating oil being pumped to the engine’s various parts is the minimum when the
engine is in neutral and idling.
 Depress the accelerator just once when needed, as unnecessary pumping wastes fuel.
 Do not rev the engine immediately before turning it off. This dumps raw fuel on the cylinder
walls; washing away the protective lubricating oil film and increasing engine wear during the
subsequent start. This also wastes fuel.

Avoid Fast Starts

 Jerky acceleration or fast starts can increase fuel consumption by approximately one kilometer
per litre in city driving.
 Accelerate briskly but smoothly upto 50 kph, then moderately up to 65kph. At this speed, keep a
steady pressure on the accelerator – just enough to maintain speed.

Drive at Moderate Speeds

 Imagine that there’s an egg that you don’t want to crush under your right foot; this will result in
even better fuel savings.
 A self-imposed 80kph speed limit will save fuel.
 Driving below the indicated speed limit on highways will produce even greater fuel savings
Avoid Low Gears, Get Up To Speed Quickly

 Keep your car's speed over the 35kph mark whenever possible.
 Skip a gear (go from 1st to 3rd or 4th) if you are on a flat road or slope.
 Run through all gears quickly and gently if going uphill.
 With automatic transmission, get the car rolling, then ease up on the accelerator to let the
gearbox shift to the highest possible gear ratio at that speed.

Hill-Climbing Techniques

Driving in hilly terrain consumes more fuel than driving on roads with no change of elevation.
The following tips will help increase fuel economy in the hills:

 Build up speed before approaching a hill to avoid fuel-wasting hard acceleration while going up
the slope.
 The momentum developed will carry the vehicle over the crest, and gravity will help the vehicle
go down the other side. Do not, however, turn your engine off or leave it in neutral while going
downhill, this can be dangerous.

Keep Tyre Pressure Up

Underinflated tyres can increase fuel consumption significantly. Please refer to Driver Energy
Tips No. 2 "Wheel Alignment and Tyre Maintenance" for more information.

Avoid Short Trips

 Distances of 1 to 8 kilometers are considered short trips to drive to.

 Short trips take their toll on fuel economy due to cold vehicle parts, cold tyres and improper
engine lubrication.
 It takes approximately 25 kilometers for a vehicle to achieve fuel efficient operation.
 Avoid starting the engine until you are ready to pull out.
 Plan ahead. Combine as many shopping errands as you can into one trip.
 Try to incorporate shopping trips into your commute.
 Travel during off-peak hours when there is less traffic.
 Operating air conditioner in city traffic reduces fuel economy by approximately 9%.
 Park in the first reasonable parking space available.

How to estimate car's mileage

"What is my car's mileage?" is a question that every car owner has on the brain, regardless of
financial status or number of cars owned. When it comes to a car's mileage, the owner is curious.
Estimating your car's mileage/fuel economy is simple if you know how to go about it. Even if
you really don't care about your car's mileage, we suggest you estimate your car's mileage once
in a while; it is a good indicator of your car's health. If your car's fuel consumption is
considerably higher than normal, you can safely assume that all is not right with the engine and it
might spell trouble for you in the near future. Another point of consideration is the environment -
cars with bad fuel efficiency tend to pollute the environment more, and while we aren’t exactly
tree-huggers, we believe that you shouldn’t harm the environment willfully.

Here is a simple way of estimating a car's mileage.

Full-to-Full:

1. Go to the filling station and fill the fuel tank completely. Completely means up to the
brim!
2. As soon as you enter your car, note the odometer reading (kilometers done) before
starting the engine. This reading is the starting point. If you have a tripmeter or two, you
can reset it to read ‘zero.’
3. Use your car as you usually do.
4. Once your fuel gauge indicates a half- or quarter-full tank, visit a nearby filling station,
preferably the same one you tanked up at the last time. This will help reduce the error.
5. Note down the quantity of fuel it takes to fill the tank up to the brim.
6. Note odometer reading once again. This is the end point.
7. Now calculate average/mileage/fuel economy of your car as the difference between the
starting and end points in km divided by the amount of fuel required to fill the tank up at
the end point, in litres, OR average fuel consumption = (end point – starting point) / Fuel
quantity
8. Alternatively, divide the tripmeter’s reading by the number of litres of fuel required to
top up the second time.

Note: You can carry out the same procedure once with the air-con on and a second time with it
off, to calculate the effect the air-conditioner has on your car’s fuel consumption..