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Past Issues
640: Turning Japanese
For better or for worse, pop stars everywhere have got something to say about Japan
639: Life�s a Beach
Here comes the sun, so get ready to strip off, oil up and catch some rays
638: You Go, GIRLS!
Japanese women demand equality in the workplace
637: 20/20 Vision
The Tokyo-born Pecha Kucha phenomenon has the global creative community hooked
636: The World is not Enough
Led by a low-key coach, Japan�s soccer team limps into the World Cup
635: A dying breed
Japan�s smokers are feeling the heat as the government slowly tackles tobacco
634: The Real Tokyo Underworld
Beneath our streets, engineers are thinking big to keep the city functioning
633: Cool Biz
Rich, confident and creative, corporate Japan is giving itself a makeover
632: Treat Yourself
Tokyo is famous for its eclectic health treatments, some wonderful, others just weird. We dispatched a skeptic to try ten of the most maverick
631: Pocket Revolutionaries
With podcasting, anyone (even Metropolis) can be a DJ
630: Flower power
Spring in Tokyo is the start of a vibrant cycle of new colors that abound even in this concrete jungle
629: Man vs Mountain
For Tokyo resident Blair Falahey, Everest is just one more obstacle to overcome
628: Little Journeys, Big Delights
From bugs to butts, tokyo's less visited museums have something for everyone
627: Harmonize This
Shinjuku�s Aikido World Headquarters is a magnet for martial arts enthusiasts from around the globe
626: The Emperor and I
Former Newsweek bureau chief Bernard Krisher recalls how he got the scoop of a lifetime
625: Fair Game
The Tokyo International Anime Fair returns, with global interest in Japanese animation at an all-time high
624: Dark Matter
Suffering ignorance and discrimination, Japan�s black community struggles to retain its pride
623: Revenge of the Nerds
The geeks come out to play in Akihabara, and they�re not ashamed anymore
622: An Ofer you can�t refuse
A Tokyo-based entrepreneur says his South Pacific dream is a win-win adventure for everyone
621: We�d be nowhere without the subway system we love to hate
620: The Boys and Girls of Winter
Rocked by scandals and looking to overcome an abysmal showing in Salt Lake City, Japan�s winter Olympians take on the world in Turin
619: The view from the Hills
Minoru Mori defends the Omotesando Hills development and reveals big plans for Tokyo
618: Think of the Children
Japan�s prejudiced legal system encourages desperate parents to abduct their own kids
617: We ♥ Tokyo
From the quirky to the cultural, explore more of Japan�s eclectic delights in 2006, because only here can you�
616: The Inner Mongolian
As Asashoryu fights to extend his record-breaking winning streak, Metropolis asks the yokozuna about babies, Bulgarians and Ulaanbaatar
614-615: Create a new you in 2006 by learning a traditional Japanese craft
613: Get the Message
As companies vie ruthlessly for our attention, Tokyo is consumed by innovations in advertising
612: Mad Dash
The Tale of Snow White and the Master Shafter: A day with the Samurai Hash House Harriers
611: Geisha Gazing
Rob Marshall and his pan-Asian stars put the casting controversy behind them to lift the lid on the world of old Kyoto
610: Life through a Lens
Whether in a war zone or on a rugby pitch, 29-year-old photographer Chihiro Koga has a unique perspective
609: THE DICTATOR VANISHES
There may be method in the madness of Alberto Fujimori, formerly Tokyo�s most notorious foreign resident
608: True Crime
Convicted drug smuggler Nick Baker�s story is not what it first appeared
607: Fight Clubs
PRIDE and K-1 are muscle-packed, testosterone-fueled phenomena. But there�s more to sport than blood and brawn
606: Home Truths
Purchasing property here isn�t easy, but there�s never been a better time to try. One happy homeowner has these house-buying hints
605: Meeting of the Minds
Design tide descends on Tokyo for an explosive week of creative mischief
604: Lights, Camera...
Be part of the action at the 18th Tokyo International Film Festival
603: Kafu's City
The haunts of Tokyo's most famous scribe may have gone, but their spirits remain
602: Big city nights
Asia's most happening city is just across the water, So what are you waiting for? Find out what all the fuss is about
601: Let�s Get Trivial!
Just what you�ve been waiting for: part two of "The Big 600" things to know about Tokyo
600: The Big 600 Part 1
Facts and figures, tales and trivia, records and rumors. We present everything you ever wanted to know (and some things you didn�t) about the biggest and greatest city in the world
599: Show me the way
If you have trouble learning Japanese, or lack the motivation to do so, why not try Japanese Sign Language instead?
598: Blueprint for Living
A postmodern development in Chiba is beautiful to look at. But would you want to live there?
597: Inside the Box
They spend their lives taking care of drunks, criminals and tourists. Who on earth would want to work in a koban?
596: The Film Files
Donald Richie, the worldwide authority on Japanese film, shares his movie memories
595: Sea Worthy
Minoru Saito�s seventh around-the-world voyage may have been his last, but the 71-year-old isn�t about to abandon the open water
594: In Search of the Rising Sun
Sixty years after the end of World War II, Tokyo still has places that evoke that tumultuous era
593: Art is All Around
Enough with overcrowded galleries! Get a different kind of art attack in the city�s free public space
592: What are you staring at?
Wild Harajuku styles are no longer Japanese only. Seven international enthusiasts explain what it�s all about
591: River Chronicles
Every July, Tokyo celebrates summer with dazzling fireworks along its most famous river. But the Sumida�s waters conceal a history of both joy and tragedy
590: A Kissa the Action
Cheap, open all night, and offering loads of entertainment, Tokyo�s manga kissa serve a restless generation
589: Halo Heroes
The Guardian Angels hit the streets of Tokyo to fight fear and complacency
588: Taste the Success
The celebrity-chef invasion gears up as British bad boy Gordon Ramsay opens two restaurants at the new Conrad Tokyo
587: Keeping your cool
Metropolis offers some hot tips for enjoying Tokyo this summer
586: A Tale of 2 trainers
Got a week? Or a couple? Two writers abandon their desks and learn to get fit�quick
585: Room Service
Back by popular demand, our design specialists turn two Tokyo shoe-box apartments into dream dwellings
584: Half a world away
Brazilian-Japanese have a love-hate relationship with the land of their forefathers
583: Coming to a theater near you
Everything you ever wanted to know about the marketing of foreign movies in Japan
582: Little Miss Popular
So much more than just a doll, birthday-girl Blythe is everything to everyone
581: A Life Less Ordinary
A new exhibition gives modern relevance to the dramatic suicide of Japan�s most controversial author
580: Resting in pieces
With no relatives around to pay for upkeep, dozens of graves in Aoyama Cemetery are in danger of being relocated. But not if The Foreign Section Trust has its way
579: Holiday of Hopes and Dreams
Volunteers Find it Hard to Balance Tourism and Charity on a Hybrid Holiday to Tsunami-Hit Sri Lanka
578: The World in a Day
Been there, Waited in line, Got the T-shirt. Decide for yourself whether to tackle Expo 2005 with our comprehensive (and honest) guide
577: The Road to Ruin
Residents of Shimokitazawa fight plans to build a highway through their town
576: Back on Course
After losing its groove in the economic downturn, Japanese golf is scrambling back
575: Idol Worship
The whiz kid behind �90s house icons Deee-lite is back with his first solo disc in six years
574: The Eagles Take Flight
The first foreign general manager of a Japanese baseball team, Marty Kuehnert says he�s confident he can make the new team fly
573: The Writes of Spring
Haiku offer the clearest understanding of the undying appeal of the cherry blossoms
572: Seekers of Supreme Truths
Ten years after the gas attacks, Japan struggles with old memories and new religions
571: Spring Forward!
Update your wardrobe with the top trends from the Spring/Summer 2005 collections
570: Memoirs of a gaijin house
Clean up your room; you never know when photographer Yutaka Otsuka will turn your living space into art
569: Meals on Wheels
Entrepreneurial Tokyoites storm the city�s lunchbreaks with a new take on street-food tradition
568: How to be Romantic:
A Valentine�s Day Dating Guide
567: Understanding the Enemy
Japan faces an inscrutable opponent when it plays North Korea in the World Cup qualifiers
566: Reaching for the Universe
The Miss Universe Japan pageant is about more than just looks: it�s shaping women who are savvy, goal-oriented and able to express themselves
565: Inner Space
Come in from the cold with our guide to Tokyo's top winter entertainment spots
564: Voices of Kobe
Ten years on, experiences of the great hanshin earthquake can help tokyoites prepare for the worst
563: The Russians are coming!!
Japan�s ages-old sport faces a foreign invasion
561-562: Golden Year 2004
2004 was record breaking, both on and off the sports field. Metropolis recalls the year�s best, worst, and most bizarre
560: Chef du jour
With an empire that spans the globe and a talent for bringing diners to their knees, Alain Ducasse is the undisputed king of the culinary world. Now Tokyo gets a taste of his success
559: The Jingle Hop has begun...
As the countdown to the holidays continues, Metropolis offers a look at both cool and traditional options for adding a Japanese flavor to your holiday shopping
558: Final conflict
Fifty years after his celluloid birth, Godzilla takes one last stroll through Tokyo. But is this really the end of the iconic green monster?
557: Perfect getaways
From cross-country skiing to traditional culture, winter in Japan offers a wealth of reasons to venture outside the capital city
556: Rock of ages
Elvis schoolmate, former Yankees shortstop, proteg� of mafia don Joe Colombo�rocker Jimmy Angel�s colorful life shows no signs letting up
555: Art explosion
Japan�s largest art event, Design Festa, marks its tenth anniversary
554: The bait and the catch
An ex-sushi chef lives in hiding, while dishing out details of the private life of his onetime boss, North Korea�s Kim Jong Il
553: Watercolors
The horror writer of Ringu fame paints the tale of a riveting performance by a Tokyo theatrical troupe
552: Well read
Japan takes center stage as Metropolis rounds up recent fiction set in the Land of the Rising Sun
551: Reality check
Hardcore punk rocker turned Zen master Brad Warner leads a journey of self-discovery
550: Life lessons
From permanent residency to private schooling, our expert panel tells you how to make the most of out of living in Tokyo
549: Journey Into Imagination
Explore the creative minds of contemporary designers with a guided tour of Tokyo�s upcoming design extravaganzas
548: State of play
Japan�s top video-game makers try to dig themselves out of a slump with new titles debuting at this weekend�s Tokyo Game Show
547: Let the games begin�again
There�s no shortage of options for pro sports fans when it comes to taking in a contest in Japan
546: Fish stories
A Harvard academic and anthropologist casts his net around Tsukiji, �the fish market at the center of the world.�
545: Flash back
Tokyo designers look to the past for this season's fashion trends
544: Unsung heroes
In a profit-driven economy dominated by mechanization, mass production and cheap foreign labor, a handful of Kyoto artisans keep the traditional art of craftsmanship alive
543: Law and order
Tougher cops, late-night curfews and surveillance cameras. Governor Shintaro Ishihara is spearheading an unprecedented stand against crime in the city of Tokyo. Is it all too much or not enough?
542: Eyes on the prize
From the pool to the track, Japan's Olympic athletes set their sights on Athens glory
541: Knight errant
When Narita immigration officers took custody of Bobby Fischer on July 13, the chess champion felt betrayed by the country that had granted him sanctuary. Now the former grandmaster and his supporters ready his last gambit
540: War and remembrance
Tim Hornyak revisits Japan's WWII legacy through the exalted and execrated grounds of Yasukuni Shrine.
539: Out and about
Whatever you�re looking for in a summer getaway, you�ll find it in the Tokyo area and beyond. Heather Lew gets the scoop on the hottest ways to chill out.
538: Snail's pace
Once a country that defined �fast-forward,� Japan is learning how to take its time. Steve Trautlein catches up with the Slow Life movement.
537: Role models
Japanese actors are stepping into the spotlight overseas thanks to some award-winning performances and a raft of samurai-inspired flicks. Chris Betros profiles the top talent.
536: Sonic stories
Summer Sonic creator Naoki Shimizu says Japan's rock festival calendar may have reached the breaking point.
535: Feeling festive
From fireworks to dance contests, Tokyo is gearing up for another summer of matsuri mania. Metropolis previews the best of the bunch.
534: Field of dreams
Hideki Matsui made his name in the ballpark, but the Major Leaguer hopes to be remembered as much for his heart as his home runs. Sachie Kanda visits him in New York.
533: Depth charge
From the underwater realms of Okinawa to the green seas off Izu, spectacular diving is closer than you think. Carlo Niederberger jumps in.
532: Screen dreams
Undaunted by miniscule budgets and a serious lack of limelight, Tokyo�s foreign filmmakers pursue their craft. Michael J. Miller talks to the people behind the cameras.
531: Spirited away
Jumpei Yasuda was abducted at gunpoint and held captive by a band of Iraqi mujahideen. So why can�t he wait to get back to Baghdad? Tama Miyake Lung hears his story.
530: Wonder Bars
Tokyo�s theme bars serve up food, cocktails�and some totally unexpected entertainment. Metropolis goes in search of the city�s wildest drinking dens.
529: In the loop
A dedicated group of foreign and Japanese artists are filming what they hope will be Japan's first sitcom. Chris Betros visits the set.
528: Down towns
In the shadow of glittering skyscrapers and trendy mini-cities, Tokyo�s derelict neighborhoods survive unchanged. Stephen Mansfield takes a walk on the wilder side.
527: Ask Mr. Movie Man
Faced with a bewildering plethora of new movie releases this Golden Week, self-indulgent Metropolis film critic Don Morton interviews himself.
526: Director�s Cut
With a hit film inspired by her observations of Tokyo, Sofia Coppola has emerged as a gifted storyteller who fuses trendsetting style and quiet resolve. Tama Miyake Lung catches up with the Oscar winner on a recent visit.
525: Room service
Armed with �5,000 per room, our interior stylists make over three expatriate pads using a playful dose of discount decor.
524: Uninventing the wheel
While other inventors dream of high-tech glory and patent riches, Kenji Kawakami straps toilet paper to his head and hankies to the seat of his pants. Tim Hornyak meets the Chindogu master.
523: Fresh talent
A handful of hot young chefs are raising the bar for traditional Japanese cuisine. Ai Uchida learns their recipes for success.
522: Full Steam Ahead
The area's newest railway, the Minatomirai line, puts the varied charms of Yokohama within easy reach. Steve Trautlein goes for a ride.
521: Fields of dreams
Just in time for spring and summer, Japan's sports scene gets set to sizzle. Fred Varcoe keeps his eye on the ball.
520: Out of Eire
One-hundred years after his death, Lafcadio Hearn remains a favorite in his adopted country of Japan. Steve Trautlein goes in search of the writer's Irish connections.
519: Pop star
With its anime, manga, music and film all the rage overseas, Japan is entering an age of unprecedented hipness. Tony McNicol investigates the staying power of "Japanese cool."
518: Food fright
With mad cow and avian flu adding to the list of threats to Japan's food safety, Tama Miyake Lung looks at how the country is coping and provides tips on how to protect yourself.
517: Curtain call
Events editor Dan Grunebaum reflects on the past and future of Tokyo's performing arts scene, and provides a sneak preview of the year ahead.
516: Second coming
Despite being dumped by the team nine years ago, Bobby Valentine is back in Japan to manage the floundering Chiba Lotte Marines. Rob Smaal meets this season's most anticipated arrival.
515: Room at the top
A new wave of luxury hotels is shaking up the industry in Tokyo like never before. Can they all survive? Chris Betros checks in.
514: Building up
Tokyo's chaotic sprawl serves as the breeding ground for playful and cutting-edge building design. Stephen Mansfield tours the city's architectural highlights.
513: Pick of the litter
She's cute, she's a commercial powerhouse and she's coming up on her 30th birthday. Ken Belson and Brian Bremner let the story of Japan's favorite cat out of the bag.
512: Beating the blues
Feeling depressed or in trouble? Tokyo has plenty of support groups that are just a phone call or mouse click away. Chris Betros provides a few pointers.
511: A world apart
For many foreign parents in Tokyo, providing their children with a fulfilling education is beyond reach. Steve Trautlein reports.
509/10: Up where we belong
As the skiing and snowboarding season comes into full swing, a handful of pros provide tips on where to travel this winter. Carlo Niederberger reports.
508: Call of the wild
Jeff Hammond talks to Tokyo-based photographer Beezer about his new book, Wild Dayz, and the legendary music scene it portrays.
507: Santa's secret weapon
With all the craziness before the holidays and the rush to jump on the plane, finding the perfect gift can be more hassle than heartwarming. Hanna Kite brings the fun back with a shopping guide sure to please everyone on your list.
506: Fashion by numbers
Tama Miyake Lung sums up the top trends from the Spring/Summer 2004 Tokyo collections.
505: Sex education
After decades spent believing that HIV and AIDS are other countries' problems, Japan could be in for a disturbing lesson. Stephen Cotterill reports.
504: Man about town
Stephen Mansfield goes on a sentimental journey with eminent author and celebrated Tokyo chronicler Donald Richie.
503: Bowled over
Bowling has been in Japan since the Edo period, and it looks like it's here to stay-even if the lights go out. Michael J. Miller gets in the game at Tokyo's top lanes.
502: Trial and error
Josh Noblestone takes a closer look at the case of drug-smuggling suspect Nick Baker and what it reveals about Japan's criminal justice system.
501: Close encounters
The skies above Japan are alive with extraterrestrial activity, according to the nation�s foremost UFO research group and its fearless leader. Matt Wilce examines the evidence.
500: Coming of age
As Metropolis celebrates its 500th issue, we look at where we've been, and where we're going, through the eyes of Tokyo's international community.
499: Welcome happiness
The new Mori Art Museum hopes to lead Roppongi's cultural evolution. John McGee sees what's up.
498: Just passing through
There's always someone interesting to catch up with at the Tokyo International Film Festival, says veteran attendee Chris Betros.
497: Pick six
From October 9-13, Tokyo Designers Block will transform the streets of Aoyama and Omotesando into a grown-up�s playground. Steve Trautlein talks with a half dozen of the event�s top talents.
496: The name game
Arnold Schwarzenegger's not the only one hoping to trade celebrity for a taste of political power. Chris Betros looks at Japan's lawmakers and finds everyone from singers to wrestlers filling the ranks.
495: Bliss list
Metropolis hits the massage table for a rundown on the city's best spas.
494: On alert
Two years after the September 11 attacks, experts say Japan is more vulnerable than ever to the threat of terrorism. Steve Trautlein reports.
493: Playing the field
Japan's athletes are gearing up for an autumn of nonstop sports action. Fred Varcoe previews all the fun.
492: From the hip
Japan's youth are giving hip-hop music, dance and fashion a makeover. Michael J. Miller raps with the devotees of "black style."
491: Modern marvel
With a bold new design for the Dojunkai Aoyama Apartments along Omotesando, award-winning architect Tadao Ando is raising the stakes on an already remarkable career. Tama Miyake Lung meets the self-made maestro.
490: Show time
Nearly one year into a government-run licensing program, Tokyo's street performers are finally getting some respect. Mick Corliss hears more from some of the charismatic characters.
489: Time zone
Old and new exist side by side in Tokyo's Tsukishima-Harumi area. Chris Betros goes for a tour.
488: Great escapes
From pristine beaches and picturesque temples to mountain resorts and the magic of Hollywood, Matt Wilce compiles our ten favorite spots for a quick getaway.
487: Season tickets
Looking for a fun way to beat the heat? Metropolis gets the rundown on the best thrills and chills to keep you entertained all summer long.
486: Life at the top
Yuichiro Miura survived 70 years, several potentially fatal ski runs, and five days in the Death Zone before becoming the oldest person to conquer Mount Everest. Tama Miyake Lung meets the new record holder and the son who shared in his thrilling ascent.
485: Seeing green
As temperatures in Tokyo rise, city officials look skyward to beat the heat. Steve Trautlein tours the city's rooftop gardens.
484: Calling the tunes?
Piano icon Herbie Hancock looks to reinvent jazz with Tokyo Jazz 2003, but is adding a turntablist to his band going to do the trick? Music editor Dan Grunebaum reports.
483: Power struggle
After a string of safety scandals, Tokyo's major energy supplier may not have enough juice to meet demand this summer. Matt Wilce reports on the very likely possibility of the city's first blackout in 16 years.
482: Flavor of the month
Boston-based big shot Todd English is the latest celebrity chef to spice up the Tokyo dining scene. Georgia Jacobs gets the scoop.
481: The new wave
As another scorching summer approaches, more and more Japanese are discovering the joys of the beach, and a fair few are finding sporting success on the sand. Tama Miyake heads for the shore.
480: Never-ending stories
The big onslaught of summer movies begins with lots of sequels and remakes. Chris Betros looks at the lineup.
479: Revival of the fittest
Ginza is under fire from swish new developments, but Japan's sentimental shopping strip is fighting back and winning some unlikely fans. Martin Webb reports.
478: The sky's the limit
The Moris are changing the face of Tokyo like never before. Chris Betros meets the man on top, CEO and President Minoru Mori.
477: Park place
With spring in full swing, there's no better time to unwind in the city's lush sanctuaries. David Chester tells you where to park it.
476: Fun in the sun
As the mercury rises, Japan's sportsmen and women gear up for a season of thrills. Fred Varcoe previews all the action.
475: The elements of style
When the mercury drops this fall and winter fashion hits a high note, if the Fall/Winter 2003-2004 Tokyo collections are anything to go by. Georgia Jacobs reports.
474: The hills are alive
Tokyo is an ailing city about to get a new cultural and entertainment heart: Roppongi Hills. Chris Betros goes for a visit.
473: Big bang theory
After lying dormant for 300 years, Mount Fuji has recently rumbled to life, and Tokyo is bracing for the worst. Steve Trautlein reports.
472: Recipe for success
In the City of the Saturated Restaurant Industry, launching 102 new establishments is a lot to swallow. But if anyone can pull it off, it�s America�s most famous gastronome, Wolfgang Puck. Georgia Jacobs gets the dish on his Japan expansion.
471: From tigers to towers
A gleaming new city is springing up at Shiodome, one of many transforming the Tokyo landscape. Chris Betros joins the crowds.
470: Head over heels
At Shinjuku�s Yoshinkan Hombu Dojo, April is the time for foreigners and Japanese police officers to train side-by-side, as Steve Trautlein learns from the masters.
469: Tokyo story
It�s been 400 years since Shogun Ieyasu Tokugawa made Edo his capital. As Tokyo gets ready to celebrate four centuries as Japan�s premier city on March 24, Matt Wilce takes a look at the metropolis� less familiar history.
468:Mass immigration
All foreign residents in Tokyo and nine prefectures now have to troop off to a new immigration office in Shinagawa for that vital stamp in the passport. Chris Betros joins the crowds.
467: In the raw
With his charity restaurant receiving rave reviews and his acclaimed no-holds-barred documentary launching in Japan, things are looking up for Jamie Oliver. But, the Naked Chef tells Georgia Jacobs, reality sometimes bites.
466: Reaching for the stars
The quest for space will continue despite the Columbia tragedy, and Japan will play its part, Chris Betros reports.
465: Devil may care
Governor Shintaro Ishihara relishes his role as the thorn in the side of Japanese bureaucracy. But the most powerful man in Tokyo is also one of the few people getting things done in the capital, he tells Tama Miyake.
464: Love in the fast lane
Romance is big business in Japan, as matchmaking and speed dating agencies vie to help you find your soulmate. Chris Betros reports.
463: Eastward bound
As Japan's homegrown talent struggle to launch themselves to stardom in the West, many of Hollywood's biggest names, ironically, have headed east to kick-start their careers.
462: Small talk
With a healthy sense of play, Tokyo offers youngsters all the fun they can handle. Steve Trautlein joins in.
461: All washed up
With the mercury dropping there's no better time to get up to your neck in hot water, and have a little fun in the process. Matt Wilce brings you a roundup of nearby onsen with more.
460: Going BAPE
With BAPE hotel wishes, BAPE Caf� New York dreams, and a new London boutique finally a reality, A Bathing Ape creator Nigo is the next self-appointed fashion ambassador for trendy Tokyoites. But is the rest of the planet ready for this simian-inspired lifestyle? Roland Kelts gets the answer from the man himself.
459: China Town
Thirty years after the former adversaries joined hands, China and Japan aren't exactly the model of diplomatic relations. But, as Tama Miyake discovers, that hasn't stopped Tokyo trendsetters from making the Middle Kingdom all the rage.
457/8: Happy holidays
Most of Tokyo shuts down for New Year's�but not all of it
456: Voluntary Movement
Despite a legacy of government indifference and a lack of social recognition, Japan's volunteers are determined to carry out their good works
455: The busy person's guide to holiday shopping
Wrapping things up at the office before the end of the year doesn't leave much time for wrapping up presents, let alone shopping for them
454: Ahead of the curve
In a world where design is the new capital, the currency through which brands and products are bought and sold, Marc Newson is a captain of the industry
453: Click draw
Following Toy Story, Monsters, Inc., and now Waking Life, are Japanese animators jumping on the computer graphics bandwagon?
452: Warm front
Tama Miyake tracks the hottest trends from the Spring/Summer 2003 Tokyo Collection
451: Great taste
Former sumo champ Akebono brings his fighting spirit and an appetite for life to the restaurant business at the newly opened ZUNA
450: Seniority rules
With wads of cash in the bank, the nation's elderly are quickly becoming the darlings of savvy manufacturers
449: A different tune
Music is universal, but can expat musicians carve a niche out of the world's second largest market?
448: To die for
Cardboard coffins, online mourning, space burials and wearable remains
447: A business of her own
With continuing education, self-invention and sheer will, the country's female population is joining the ranks of Japan Inc
446:Great Id�e
Teruo Kurosaki wants to change the world through design
445: Open house
A traditional Japanese farmhouse complete with thatched roof and hearth, Chiiori in the Iya Valley offers adventurers the opportunity to relive the best of old Japan
444: In a T.I.F.F.
The 15th Tokyo International Film Festival celebrates Asian cinema with a little bit of help from Hollywood heavyweights.
443: All grown up
Western readers will be seeing a new face to manga soon, and it's got nothing to do with Pokemon or Yu-Gi-Oh.
442: Saved by the bell
With the suicide toll topping 30,000 since 1998, can hotline pioneer Inochi no Denwa, answer Japan's cry for help?
441: Ready to rumble
Japan's X League American football players on the road to the Rice Bowl
440: Feel the rhythm
Asakusa's Samba Carnival is proof positive of Japan's status as the Asian hotbed of Brazilian culture
439: Interior angle
The stars du jour of the foodie crowd are no longer celeb chefs but the country's avant-garde designers
438: Alternate view
Tokyo's independent cinemas offer a ticket out of the mainstream
437: Bean counting
The last thing caffeine-addicted Tokyoites need is another fancy cup of joe
436: Wild things
August is the time when friends flee for Bali, Blighty and Buenos Aires, and the city empties for O-bon, but that's no reason to be bored
435: Ties that bind
Thanks to increased government involvement and greater public exposure, child abuse is gradually emerging from the shadows
434: Stars in your eyes
You know when summer has arrived in Japan. Baseball bats and yukata come out of storage, tea and noodles are served cold, cicadas' songs pierce the air and fireworks fill the night sky
433: Picture this
Don Morton, the guy who goes to all the movies so you don't have to, offers guidance for the time you'll spend this summer in dark rooms watching moving images on walls
432: The shore thing
Three hours south lies a village by the sea where the sands of time slow to a trickle, breeze blows off the Pacific, and turquoise waters lap at its pristine beaches and hidden coves
431: Fast food
On July 4, the world's fastest eaters descend on Coney Island, New York, to conquer a mountain of hot dogs in the 87th annual Nathan's contest
430: Making music
Drawing 50,000 fans and over 70 world-class acts, The Fuji Rock Festival is Japan's premier sound extravaganza
429: Capital Assets
Tokyo is a treasure trove of art, culture and a fair share of kitsch
428: The house of Hanae
As the investor-owned pret-a-porter line that bears her name goes bust, Japan's couture pioneer pushes ahead
427: The grand stand
Overshadowed by its mega-neighbor, the new Saitama City is set to prove it's more than a sleepy industrial backwater
426: Sugamo stories
With little more than pencils and paper, five prolific inmates documented life behind bars with such infamous war criminals as WWII premier Hideki Tojo
425: Made in Japan
A charmed existence by many standards, expatriate life in Tokyo, despite wars, earthquakes and occupation, has paved the road to success for many a foreigner
424: The game of life
Hidetoshi Nakata has been cheered and jeered as the face of Japanese soccer
423: In the flesh
Summer sumo tournament at Ryogoku in May
422: Fashion Frenzy
The joshikosei, or teen fashionistas, are some of the most voracious consumers on the planet
421: This way up
On the doorstep of fashion enclave Daikanyama, Nakameguro has been steadily making its way from downtown district to divine destination
420: The big kick
The first World Cup of the 21st century promises to be a ball of fire
419: Win win situation
With the winter season safely behind it, Japan is bracing itself for potentially the biggest sporting year in history
418: Laughing matters
Tokyo's comedians want to make Japan a funnier place
417: Robotops
Spearheading the robot evolution, Japan continues to wow the world with its clever cast of droids
416: Crime scene
Mark Schreiber dishes the dirt on Japanese felons
415: Culture class
Tokyo's international schools dole out lessons on life in Japan
414: Club scene
Our guide to where to go to get tight and toned in Tokyo
413: Matter of PRIDE
Ultimate fighters pull out all the punches for Pride
412: Spy games
Unfaithful spouses and philandering beaus beware of the beautiful barfly
411: A winter's tale
Japan's all star cast of Olympians are set to storm Salt Lake City
410: Close quarters
Venturing into Tokyo's private spaces
409: In the DARC
Turning the spotlight on Japan's cutting-cutting edge rehab program
408: Take the plunge
You don't have to go far outside the city limits before you hit prime onsen territory.
407: Bringing up the baby
The future looks bright for the newest member of the royal family
406: You gotta have Seoul
Korea Reconsidered
405: Deep impact
Meet Japan's most influential people in 2001
404: 12 fun ways to spend your post christmas break
403: Martha Stewart exclusive
America's domestic diva descends on Japan
402: All they want for Christmas
399: To beef or not to beef
One mad cow and Japan's beef industry is bust.
398: In touch with tradition

an interview with 3 artisans who bring the best of the past to present-day Tokyo
397: Captain cooks

Out of the kitchen - Tokyo's rising executive chefs
396: Ghost town

Tokyo's horrible history
395: Generation Next

The world-first launch of NTT DoCoMo�s third generation mobile phone network represents a quantum leap into mobile cyberspace. Stuart Braun goes online.
394: Sister act
Celeb sisters Kyoko and Mika Kano have taken Japan by storm, but can they win over the West? Chris Betros and Maki Nibayashi spend an evening with the divine duo.
393: Reel time
Matt Wilce gets a close-up of the Tokyo International Film Festival's hottest tickets.
392: Lap it up
Michael Schumacher is champion again, but the unpredictable Suzuka circuit is still set to offer up a surprise-packed Japan Grand Prix on October 14. Stuart Braun goes trackside.
391: Everything old is new
You might think Azabu Juban is all swanky dining and dancing 'till dawn.....
390: Cooking the books
Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa�s in town with his new book in hand.....
389: Up from the underground
Japan's literary superstar Haruki Murakami is home for the duration
388: First wave
John McGee dives into Japan's art extravaganza
387: Water world
Matt Wilce explores Tokyo DisneySea
386: Open house
Many people are sleeping on the streets of Tokyo
385: A moveable feast
Some of the city's best yatai fare
384: Hair
A look at Tokyo's salon industry
383: Summer in the city
20 ways to make August a little more bearable
382: Tokyo Tomorrow
Stuart Braun tracks the future of the metropolis
381: From zero to hero
81-year-old Zero fighter Sadamu Komachi looks back
380: Island escapade
Journey to Odaiba
379: Open-air fare
Tokyo's alfresco dining spots
378: Reel story
Reel in the summer's hottest movies
377: Sonic relief
Gear up for the summer's hottest music festivals
376: All at sea
No shortage of fun in the sun on the beach
375: Your cup of tea
Tea time in Tokyo
374: No time to waste
Tokyo's mounting problems with garbage
373: Freetown
Tokyo's stylish suburb, Jiyugaoka
372: Broken record
Tokyo's ecclectic array of record stores
371: Bottoms up
Tokyo's finest martini bars
370: Admit one
Regulations for foreigners wanting to live and work on Japan
369: After a fashion
Spring trends from the catwalks to the streets
368: Bandwidth wagon
Japan's move towards DSL
367: Just for sports
How to play ball this summer
366: Life's a hitch
Helpful hints for hitch hiking in Japan
365: Altered state
Try Tokyo's tailors on for size
364: The Fringe Club
Shinjuku's infamous Golden Gai bar district
363: Take two Tomatos
Design gurus Michael Horsham and Steve Baker
362: Stage left
Innovative and intimate shogekijo (little theaters)
361: The lowdown on TC
Everything you ever wanted to know about TC, but were afraid to ask
360: A reversal of fortune
Tokyo's home of racing, Fuchu Racecourse
359: Funny Valentine
How to do Valentine's Day in Japan
358: Two-faced
Heartthrob Katsunori Takahashi
357: Read all about it
Amazon.com comes to Japan
356: Daikanyama
Central Tokyo's hippest hood
355: Wash out
Heaven Sento
354: Means to an end
Some good ideas to inspire you
352/3: Last Laugh
TC's rosey re-cap of the year
Signs of the times
Horoscopes for 2001
351: It's a wrap
TC's holiday gift tips
350: Cable ready
Cable and satellite broadcasting renaissance

ISSUES 349-
ISSUES 299-
ISSUES 249-

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Feature
By Trey Shores

A dying breed

Japan’s smokers are feeling the heat as the government slowly tackles tobacco

Like many of Japan’s 30 million adult smokers, Takashi Nakamura, a 33-year-old systems engineer and pack-a-day man since he was 17, is finding it harder to indulge in his favorite pastime.

“My wife won’t let me smoke at home, even on the balcony, and my company recently took away the smoking room on our floor,” he says.

Forced to get creative, Nakamura spends hours at pachinko parlors—though not even a fan of the game—to get in some “serious, uninterrupted smoking.”

Kanako Fujiwara, a 36 year-old graphic designer, has a different perspective.

“I stopped going out on weekends because I hated coming home stinking of smoke,” she says. “I know Japan is behind other countries in banning smoking, but I think in a few years things will be very different.”

Fujiwara may be right. In February 2004, Japan ratified the World Health Organization (WHO) Framework Convention on Tobacco Control, which encourages and requires member countries to set tobacco control strategies, ban or limit cigarette advertising, raise tobacco taxes and implement comprehensive smoke-free policies.

But in a country where nearly 30 percent of adults smoke (compared to 19 percent in the US), and where the government, via the finance ministry, owns half of Japan Tobacco (JT), the world’s third largest tobacco maker, smoking is still as Japanese as sushi and sumo.

Tadao Hozumi of the Japan Tobacco Problems Information Center is cautious. He says the WHO treaty is “watered down” because of pressure from big tobacco, but is, at least, a starting point.
“The [treaty] is useful for us as a footing when we demand Japanese government agencies, companies and restaurants take measures to restrict smoking,” says Hozumi.

An increasing number of cities and towns across the country are trying to stub out the habit, at least on their streets. In Tokyo’s Chiyoda ward, smokers can be fined �2,000 if caught puffing outside of designated smoking areas. Several other wards have ordinances banning smoking while walking, or stamping out cigarette butts on the street, but these are routinely flaunted.
Osaka city’s municipal government hopes to enact an ordinance by 2007 that would make its busiest downtown areas smoke—and, ideally, cigarette-butt—free. Lawbreakers would be fined on the spot, as they are in Chiyoda ward.

Apart from complaints from non-smokers about clouds of smoke on city streets and dangers to children from lit cigarettes, Osaka city officials cited the large amount the city spends each year (nearly �100 million over the last decade) to clean up after smokers.

Tobacco companies and the government provide smoking areas and “cars” to improve smoking manners
Photo: Tsutomu Fujita

Ebisu in Tokyo’s Shibuya ward offers a microcosm of the best and worst of the private sector’s attitude to smoking. The Yebisu Garden Place shopping, business and residential complex is about as smoke-free as they come in Japan. No-smoking placards are everywhere and confused smokers, often with an un-lit cigarette between their lips, can be seen searching for one of the few designated areas where it's OK to light up.

Back at Ebisu station, customers at Becker’s fast food restaurant are puffing away; the restaurant’s no-smoking section is hard to see through the clouds of smoke. Like most restaurants and caf�s, Becker’s has only recently had to provide separate areas for non-smokers.

In May 2003, Japan’s health promotion law came into effect, requiring public facilities to take measures to cut down on people’s exposure to passive smoke. Hozumi calls the law, which lacks penalties for those slow or unwilling to comply, a “moral rather than legal obligation.” In fact, somewhat bizarrely, there seem to be more restrictions on smoking outdoors on the street than indoors in confined spaces.

Motives behind smoking restrictions in Japan differ from those in the West. From New York to Newcastle, smoking has, to varying degrees, been outlawed in public places. And in every case, the driving force behind the bans has been public health. Here, it is more about manners.

JT’s “Smoking Clean” campaign, which had JT employees and tobacco retailers out on the streets picking up cigarette butts, was accompanied by a series of clever print and TV ads urging smokers to mind their ash and avoid smoking on crowded streets. The company expanded the program across Japan in 2004 to install special smoking areas, like the one in front of Almond, the popular meeting spot in Roppongi. JT also has two “Smoker’s Style SmoCar” trailers fitted with special ventilation systems that can accommodate up to 20 people at a time, and a few indoor “Smoking Clean” facilities where smokers can light up in peace.

“JT is committed to promoting a society in which both smokers and non-smokers coexist in a harmonious way,” explains company spokeswoman Yukiko Seto.

Tobacco companies are basically left to regulate their own advertising policies, voluntarily refraining from placing ads on public transport or crowding city skylines with giant billboards. Instead, the most convenient place for brands to sell themselves is at vending machines. There are 616,000 in Japan, so smokers rarely have to walk more than a block to get their next fix. The machines are also a huge source of revenue for tobacco makers (nearly half of JT’s domestic tobacco sales come from vending machines).

Photo: Tsutomu Fujita

Some tobacco companies opt for less orthodox advertising methods. British American Tobacco (BAT) recently stationed mini-skirted information providers at several Tokyo-area vending machines to tempt smokers with its new brand, Kent Super Menthol Light 100s, and a free gift (a lighter emblazoned with the Kent logo). Another BAT brand, Kool, has sponsored nightclub events where free samples were handed out.

Such advertising campaigns run afoul of the spirit of the WHO treaty, which also requires members to ensure that tobacco products do not create false impressions about their health effects. JT’s best-selling Mild Seven Lights—which by WHO standards are neither “light” nor “mild”—falls squarely in the headlights of this requirement.

The WHO treaty also stipulates that cigarette packs contain strong health warnings and cover at least 30 percent (both front and back) of each pack. Previous labels on packs in Japan admonished: “Smoking too much may affect your health. Try not to smoke too much.” Now, in addition to much stronger warnings linking cigarettes to lung cancer and increased risks of stroke and heart disease, packs are also required to clarify that expressions such as “mild” and “super lights” do not make a product less dangerous. It may be some years, however, before packs in Japan carry pictures of cancerous lungs or rotting teeth, as they do in Canada.

When Starbucks entered the Japanese market in 1996, its blanket ban on smoking in its stores was groundbreaking. More common was Doutor, Japan’s largest coffee chain, long known as a smokers’ haven. But even Doutor is moving in step with the anti-tobacco trend. Customers can still nurse a cup of coffee for two hours and smoke themselves silly, but they are now more likely to be in separate smoking sections. Doutor spokesman, Kodo Miyaoka, says that the company is aiming for a 70/30 non-smoking/smoking ratio for its shops across Japan.

Perhaps cautious about alienating its core customer base, Doutor chose not to build separate rooms for smokers (like those of rival coffee house Tully’s), which would be out of line with its plans—echoing those of JT—to “create an environment where both smokers and non-smokers can co-exist.”

On the railways, JR East has moved its smoking sections to the ends of train platforms and banned smoking in most stations during peak periods. Several lines, including the Nagano Shinkansen, the Narita Express and others with journeys of less than two hours, are now entirely smoke free. The company also reduced the number of smoking cars on some busy long-haul lines.

Smokers near Roppongi Hills have to go inside a box to light up

Although there are no government bans on smoking in the workplace, only guidelines and regulations, Japan’s smokers are also finding it harder to light up during the workday. Most large companies are smoke-free or allow smoking only in designated smoking rooms (but only some with special ventilation systems). It’s a different story, however, in many smaller companies, where smokers can still happily—and legally—puff away at their desk.

Kayako Saito, a 36 year-old graphic designer at a small Saitama publisher, says that more than half of her colleagues are smokers, but they politely wait until 5.30pm to smoke at their desk. Given that the average business day in Japan doesn’t get going until the late afternoon (Saito often works until 10pm or midnight), she finds this little comfort.

“It’s hard, because my boss smokes at his desk all day and he sets an example for the rest of the office,” she says. “I don’t have the courage to ask him, or the other smokers, to move their habit outside.”

With its population declining, Japan can’t afford to lose able-bodied workers to tobacco-related diseases (cigarettes kill an estimated 5 million people each year, according to the WHO). And despite the fact that health issues ranked highest in a recent Cabinet Office survey of the nation’s worries, many of Japan’s smokers seem unconcerned about the possible negative consequences of their addiction.

Hiroshi Tomita smokes two packs a day. The owner of a television production company, he looks much older than his stated 45.

“Cigarettes help me cope with the stress of work,” Tomita said, adding, “My long days—sometimes 14 or 15 hours—are made bearable by my many smoke breaks.” But Tomita also speaks of the toll smoking has had on his body: his lips and fingers are perpetually stained and his doctors tell him his smoker’s cough could be an early sign of chronic lung disease.
“I know smoking is bad for me, but I don’t have the energy to quit,” he says. “If the price of cigarettes was to double, I would be much more motivated,” he adds.

To smoke or not to smoke?
Photo: Trey Shores

In a country of �1,800 ice creams and �10,000 melons, the price of a packet of smokes (usually between �270 and �300) is downright cheap. Smokers can expect an increase, however, this July, when the tax on cigarettes goes up by �1 per stick. Also, JT hopes to add an additional �10 per box to the price of its most popular brands.

Compare this to Norway where a pack of Marlboros will set you back almost �1,000, or California, where voters will decide on an additional $2.60 tax per box this November (bringing the price of a pack up to nearly $7, or over �800).

Tomita and other smokers in Japan have plenty of options open to them if they want to quit. Nicotine gum and patches (though certainly not cheap) are available in most drug stores, and since April, smoking cessation treatments are partially covered by health insurance.

The number of smokers in Japan is dwindling—the overall smoking rate fell by more than half a percentage point in JT’s latest survey—and the health ministry, at last, appears ready to get tough. But for now, Japan’s millions of cigarette lovers seem determined to keep on puffing, perhaps heeding the call of Ryoichi Sato, chairman of Go Smoking, a pro-smoking organization, who writes on his website: “Various poisons and harmful substances are prohibited around the world, however tobacco continues to be sold. So go ahead—enjoy a smoke.”

May 31 is World No Tobacco Day. See www.who.int/tobacco for more information.

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